One example of a boost gauge install.
03-23-2006, 07:07 PM
#1
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One example of a boost gauge install.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/102607/boostgauge.jpg"></center><p>First of all, i removed the kick panel under the steering column. It was a total of 6 bolts, not hard at all. Then i went under the hood and tapped into the line coming from the intake manifold to the moisture trap. then i located the empty grommet located right on the firewall, under the clutch master clyinder( i pulled back the carpet just a bit). after that i made an incision in the grommet and ran a hanger from the inside of the cabin to the engine bay throught the grommet hole. When you find the hanger, tape or somehow attach your vacuum line to it and pull through on the cabin side. For the vent, i just pulled it out with a needle nose pliers, then you have to remove the vertical slats, i just pulled on them till they gave. Then i put the vent in a vice and took a hole saw, 2 1/8" diameter, and cut throught the vent. Make sure you drill in reverse, otherwise you will break the horizontal slats. Then it was a matter of taking a bit of tape to make sure the gauge was snug in the vent. I used the black face VDO Vision series gauge, 25 psi that i got from "egauges.com" . Now for the lighting of the gauge, I had to peel off the tape that holds the fuse wires together to gain access to the positive fuse wire on the downside of fuse number 7( power for the instrument cluster)I took an easy splice connector and tapped into that line( it was greyish wire(supposedly it is a thin green wire with yellow striping, but i could not locate it coming from the fuse so i used the grey one))for power. Also i have a 93 s4. To gain access to the vent tunnel, I took a drill and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the underside of the vent tunnel. that was big enough to accomodate the vacuum line and the power lines. For the ground, I used the common ground on the circuit breaker type thing beneath the kick panel. Once you plumb the lines through the hole in the vent tunnel, connect the lines to your gauge and reinstall the vent with the gauge in it. Make sure your connections are all sealed and have some sort of clamp( ie: zip ties)on the vacuum lines. Then make sure that the lines are all out of harms way, make sure the vacuum lines are secured to something(i zip tied mine to the brake master cylinder) and make sure that the vacuum line going through the firewall is out of the pedals way. I hope that helps, this is my first writeup ive ever attempted and if you need anything, just ask id be glad to help. If you want pictures too, id be glad to post them.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/102607/dash1.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/102607/dash1.jpg">
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03-23-2006, 08:43 PM
#8
One suggestion: You should use the output wire from No. 7 fuse rather than the input wire. If...
you use the greyish blue input wire, it is always "hot" when the lights are on and therefore, it is not protected by the fuse. Using the thin green wire with a yellow stripe on the out put side of No. 7, your gauge is protected by the fuse.
Not wanting to confuse things BUT the thin green/yellow No. 7 output wire should NOT be confused with the thicker green/yellow wire on the output side of Fuse No. 17, the fuel pump fuse.
You don't want to have your car burn up for lack of fuse.
Not wanting to confuse things BUT the thin green/yellow No. 7 output wire should NOT be confused with the thicker green/yellow wire on the output side of Fuse No. 17, the fuel pump fuse.
You don't want to have your car burn up for lack of fuse.
03-23-2006, 09:01 PM
#9
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hey, you're a Minnesota guy! Looks like Minneapolis?
I need to make it up to a GTG sometime this summer. By the way, great looking install, I plan to do somethin similar in my 90 or hopefully a CQ after the 20vt swap;-)
