New incentive programs
I have a feeling acquisition will continue for the upper tier models for May (just my gut feeling), so op, you should be good
I ordered (custom build) a BMW last week ( in April.)My salesperson told me car will be in 2nd week of June. Lease price established and zero talk of increased increased pricing for May or June. Yes price is in writing. I Have purchased and leased plenty of cars in my day. And none were subject Higher pricing bc the dealer could not deliver or they where built and it obviously bridged the month ordered.
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I ordered (custom build) a BMW last week ( in April.)My salesperson told me car will be in 2nd week of June. Lease price established and zero talk of increased increased pricing for May or June. Yes price is in writing. I Have purchased and leased plenty of cars in my day. And none were subject Higher pricing bc the dealer could not deliver or they where built and it obviously bridged the month ordered.
The price of the car, exclusive of incentives, can always be negotiated. On a lease, residual, etc can also be prelocked in, Audi has a method for that. Some incentives run on a quarterly basis, some do not. Some incentives are regionally based too. The program sheets each list expiration dates. Audi will not honor an incentive that is posted past the expiration date. What BMW does now, no clue, been ~8 years since I factory ordered one. If things post a couple days later, Audi is ok with that - but the actual paperwork has to be dated at, or prior to close of the month (i.e date paperwork for the 29th, delivery takes place the 2nd). Otherwise, and I know this first hand, the deal cannot be properly validated with Audi, which has to take place for any incentive being requested. So perhaps BMW has incentives that run on longer than a monthly basis for the car you're building - Audi has some cars like that too. Other cars, they don't. 9 times out of 10, their incentives run monthly. This is why, when I am quoting a deal, I will negotiate the car itself. Incentives take place at the time of the delivery, subject to what is on the table then, and what the client qualifies for. Same goes for rate locking deals..I always do it without taking incentives into account. Those simply get stacked on top.
I am not in the car business but having owned 20 plus cars (4 specifically ordered and built) in my lifetime and have 6 on the driveway currently I have learned to focus on what I want out of the deal and not be constrained by OPP. Other people’s problems. The key is never buy /lease if your in a rush. I have 3 owned vehicles and 3 leased. Daily drivers are leased. Winter drivers and specialty cars owned. I can always rock a winter driver if my lease ends and I’m without a car. In my case I hope to get a loaner if after 6/7 my lease goes back and my car is not in.
I really think that the dealer sales people love to pressure us with I don’t know the deal next month close today tactics. I’ve never ever been told your price went up after i left a deposit bc the incentive changed. Ever. I have purchased everything from Econ boxes to serious German heavy metal. Trick it know your facts going in. Lease hacker has a great calculator and Edmunda will give you MF and residual for your time period and mileage as well as local promotions. Then you negotiate the price and cap cost and plug it in. Boom. You have your number. Now you can call around and play the number and throw in’s with local dealers your consider for using for service. The sale is a moment in time but the service is a 36 month relationship that you need at times.




