jlee3

Avincar, where is your shop?

avincar

Take a look at our site - avincar dot com

nitroxextreme

Yes my A6 is the sedan style.

I am not sure what you mean by big door...i do have 2 doors 1 on each side and no cd changer so i have some room.

The sub mounted there was all custom work? It looks so good.

I read on the forum about the sub enclosure that the dls doesnt need to be in sealed box.

Do you think i would be able to fit the sub in one side and 2 amps in the other(1 for speakers and 1 for sub)...if so what amps would you recomend.

I have been looking at speakers some more...mostly MB Quart...im thinging either 6.5 in premium or Q-line (the dls are so nice, but they are just as expensive)

On a different note...do you know of a cheap way to add an aux input...just like a heeadphone jack or something(dont need special ipod hook up(no ipod for me....i did the creative route)). I have heard of something that plugs into the cd changer plug, but i thought the cheap ones were HU specific.

avincar

ALL the aux inputs are HU specific.

There is one on the logjam.com site. Click AUX In on the left side and then Audi to see a list.

The woofer does not need a SEALED box. It can be in a PORTED box, but still needs a box. Sealed is usually going to give you the best transient response and tightest sound. If you want to do an "infinite baffle" installation, you often need to lose your folding seat. Not a good idea in my book.

I dislike metal dome tweeters a LOT. The DLS UP6 are better sounding than the Q series in my mind.

We are an MB Quart dealer but we don't do much with the tweeters.

nitroxextreme

Alot of people have mixed feeling about metal tweeters...i never really knew there was a difference until i upgraded my home speakers. This difference is still heard in cars?

I think you have finally sold me completely on the DLS UP6.(this is def for my benefit). So if i put a pair of those in the front what would you suggest for the back? I think your website may have swayed me towards this whole frontstage thing...just dont know if its the way to go for the type of sound im looking for.

By "infinite baffle" installation do you mean all hidden

Im willing to make some compromises with what is shown...like amps could go on sidewalls...if possible(would love to be able to keep most of trunk floor open). I just think a sub in one of those cubbies would be so amazing. That would only be possible with custom work...or could it possibly be a DIY project.

What power do you think i would need in the amps for this type of system? Any prefered brands?

BTW i went to your site and man your stuff is amazing. I also love the fact that you guys have a 'philosophy' if you want to call it that. Very hard to find a honest hard working business these days.

jlee3

Great site. To bad I am on the East coast. I would definitly check you out. I have talked to a number of local shops over the years and I would not let them touch my cars. The current pimp my ride car audio industry does not work for me. I was young once and I get it but I don't want a tv and why would I add an extra 100 pounds of weight to my I wish it was lighter car. You sound like you get it.

avincar

Yeah, if we do a car, everything should be either invisible or look stock.

avincar

The difference that I hear in cars with metal tweeters is a little different than in home speakers. In cars, the lower notes the tweeter plays the better - for off-axis dispersion AND for elevating the image - but the metal tweeters have some resonances that prevent that from sounding right. They give an initial sensation of "detail", but usually end up sounding fatuiging, "etched", and hard. (All the wine-tasting words, I know, sorry

Infinite baffle means a woofer hanging on a panel, not in a box. The Bose sub in some B5s is hanging under the rear deck and is an infinite baffle install (also called "free-air"). A sealed enclosure sounds better as a rule.

Oh, in the rear, I'd leave them stock if you're buying a 4-channel amp for the sub and the front. If you are buying a 4-channel amp for the front and rear and another amp for the sub, I'd use Morel Pulse coaxes ($200) or Integra point source coaxes ($400), or avincar 6.5 coaxes ($200) which I think will fit.

I don't have ready access at this time to an A6 sedan... but if you found someone that would let us have their car for a day, we could make a mold

nitroxextreme

Amps are continually being a locked door in my head..

I really cant figure out whats going on with them besides the fact that they control speakers.
btw...does the audi hu have an amp control plug on the back?

What should be the power rating on a 4channel amp for speakers? What does the ohm rating matter for? Is bigger size wize necessarily better?

What type of amp should be used for a sub? mono/2channel? What should be the power rating for that?

Who makes good amps?

avincar

Look, our ears sense changes in air pressure.

We can hear changes from around 16-20 changes per second (we FEEL those) to around 16,000 to 20,000 changes per second.

(We do NOT hear the differences in linear order. The difference between 42 cycles per second (the lowest note a bass guitar can play) and 84 cycles per second, sounds as HUGE as the difference between 400 and 800. It's a ratio thing.)

So a speaker needs to create changing air pressure.

It is made of a pie plate, a toilet paper empty-roll tube, and a magnetic doughnut.

The speaker magnet that we all see? It's doughnut shaped. There's a shiny metal plate on the back covering the hole, but the magnet itself has a big hole in it.

The pie plate is the speaker cone.

The toilet paper roll tube is glued to the pie plate like a handle, coming out of the center of the plate.

You know how speaker wires have (+) and (-) terminals with wires coming off of them?

Those two wires are actually opposite ends of the same wire! That wire is wrapped around the toilet paper tube. The tube is inside the doughnut hole.

If you send (+) electricity through the wire, the coil becomes an electromagnet, forcing the speaker OUT, away from the permanent magnet.

If you send (-) electricity through the wire, the coil becomes an electromagnet, forcing the speaker IN, towards the permanent magnet.

And if you send electricity that changes from (+) to (-) and back 42 times a second, you hear the lowest note a bass guitar can play.

And now you know more than anyone that works for Best Buy.

Amps send the electricity to the speaker, to push and pull the speaker - to make sure that the momentum of the speaker cone's motion is not determining the sounds we hear, but the electrical signal is determining the sounds we hear.

When the amp is too tiny, at louder volumes, the speaker starts rebounding so hard that the amp isn't strong enough to make sure that the cone motion tracks the electrical signal. That's distortion - a change in the sound. It's like your shocks being bad - the wheel rebounds without being damped.

So your amp has to push the speaker around cleanly, not adding or subtracting, and not have any noise, any whine, any pop.

My fave amp lines at present are Zapco and DLS. audison is good. Brax and Helix are good but pricey. I hear the Boston amps are good. old xtant were great. Tru Technology are great. JL amps are well built but overrated for sound quality (iffy) and overpriced. Elemental Designs amps are OK.

Alpine, Kenwood, MTX, Kicker, Rockford, are all mainstream chain gear any more and you can do better.