adding only sub/amp to full factory bose system
#1
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adding only sub/amp to full factory bose system
I know this can be done, but I've seen a few different things about wiring the blaupaunkt adaptor for front only RCAs or front and rears. I need to know the true lowdown on wiring up the adaptor into a bose stereo harness. I will be starting with full factory system and then adding my amp/subs, and from there replacing all the interior speakers and running off my same amp (6 channel amp).
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I know, but that doesn't answer my questions :)
I don't want to dump the $600+ for the speakers and install replacement of the factory speakers on top of the $500+ to do the sub/amp install. I'm splitting it up simply because I can, and I'm sick of having a total lack of low end.
#4
Why not just change the head unit also. This way, when you sell the car, you can easily return it
to stock without the hastle of trying to "un-modify" the factory head unit. As for making it look clean, I had it done in my car, and it looks nice.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/audio/msgs/14210.phtml">Link to Ted's stereo install</a></li></ul>
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Re: Why not just change the head unit also. This way, when you sell the car, you can easily return
1) Any head unit I want it $400+ that I don't want to spend now
2) I DESPISE the way a single DIN head unit looks inside that huge opening in the dash, which leads me to
3) I probably will get a fixed LCD which is even more money, and most of the fixed LCDs out now aren't all that new, so I'd wait for something newer, or until I decide exactly what I want to do with the opening.
It really comes down to spending $500 broken up over segments or $1500-2000 all at once, and while I have the cash, I donot want to dump it into the stereo all at once.
In any event, I saw your pictures.. it looks like your amp rack is also the cd changer rack. How is that entire piece mounted to the rear deck? Just the top piece screwed right in?
2) I DESPISE the way a single DIN head unit looks inside that huge opening in the dash, which leads me to
3) I probably will get a fixed LCD which is even more money, and most of the fixed LCDs out now aren't all that new, so I'd wait for something newer, or until I decide exactly what I want to do with the opening.
It really comes down to spending $500 broken up over segments or $1500-2000 all at once, and while I have the cash, I donot want to dump it into the stereo all at once.
In any event, I saw your pictures.. it looks like your amp rack is also the cd changer rack. How is that entire piece mounted to the rear deck? Just the top piece screwed right in?
#6
Ahh, ok. Well in that case ...
On the Bose system all speakers are run off the amp, so you will want to tap into the line out for the front or rear. You can do this in the trunk at the bose amp instead of going with the blau adapter. You will have to solder together a RCA Y adapter.
As for the speakers, I got a set of nice Cadence 5-1/4" components brand new on ebay for $95. No need to budget $600 if you shop around.
As for the speakers, I got a set of nice Cadence 5-1/4" components brand new on ebay for $95. No need to budget $600 if you shop around.
#7
I can certainly understand needing to break up the prices. But just some additonal info, they do
make aftermarket 1.5, 2 and 2.5 DIN head units, but you're correct that they are costly.
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tapping into line out..
Hmm, this would make install costs cheaper because it would mean no need to run RCAs all the way from the head unit back to amp. It would also mean quicker install. Eventually I'd want to run RCAs instead of tapping into a line out, but for now, this would be adequate for the subs I think.
Where is the bose amp in the rear? Is it actually part of the speakers?
Would I not need a line level converter?
Did you do this? Any pictures?
Where is the bose amp in the rear? Is it actually part of the speakers?
Would I not need a line level converter?
Did you do this? Any pictures?
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Re: Wire it off of the bose amp and use a converter to RCA's...I did it...
I don't want to use the bose amp, but bypass it and get the signal that goes into it. Is it as easy and tapping into the wires before the amp and using a line level converter?