HIS4

Uses a nice small sealed box. You can go ported if you want but the sealed box sounded great. I did notice that when I was running it with 300W it sounded good but when I bumped it up to 600W OMG!! it was like a totally different sub.

Togglehead

...yes, that IS what a speaker must do to make sound, obviously, but especially in the hatchbacks ive dealt with (im aware its different for a sedan) ive noticed i can almost "hear" how far the speaker travels based on how much air pressure changes. The fact is, the farther the speaker is traveling, the slower it will respond (typically).

Now, I'm sure a JL audio DVC 15" would make <i>more</i> sound than my old DVC Visonik...but i preferred the tighter response of the Visonik. I got what i considered a better tibre out of it...

This is of course...all preference.

Togglehead

...crisp and tight low end. I play a 5-string, and that low B must be supported or the amp just doesnt cut it. More often than not, i find a 10" just cant cut it there....but of course, that is an entirely different application and speaker design.

Now...that being said, i still sought after responsive bass. Even at the sub levels, i should hear where the sound is coming from, but i dont want the speaker dragging behind on my rapid staccato bass hits in the Drum n Bass i love too.

The tones and pitch are low...as its delivering low frequencies...but the JLs IVE heard arent as responsive as some others to my taste. Although, i cant say this couldnt be blamed on the owners poor setup...

HIS4

I'm not sure why that is but you're not the first to react that way to that statement. I tried to explain it to my borther and he said there was no way a 5" or 6" mid could recreate the kick of a kick drum or the pluck of a bass. Then I told him to listen to my system with the sub off and then with the sub on. Now he's convinced.

The low end does get reinforced by the sub but the initial attack comes from the midbass drivers. The attack is what people usually perceive as the tightness of the bass. The trick is to setup all the drivers so that they appear to blend into one seamless source of sound. There will be a left and a right but you shouldn't have travel from front to back.

HIS4

In either case, that is one of the drawbacks of having subs in the cabin like you would in a hatchback or truck.

Togglehead

Basically, im sure as you said having the sub in the cabin in a hatchback didnt help...

Togglehead

...high enough quality mid drivers. Most stage cabinets are 8ohm as well...so this changes things.

I mean, i DO know that smaller speaker diameters CAN produce the punch part (listen to some good studio monitors for examples, people), but its the low freq (18-50Hz) rumble that i feel suffers the most. Hence, why i used to run a dual sub setup....one 10" and one 15." That 10 handled from 80-50Hz (switchable to 120 if i wanted, but rarely) and the 15" from 50Hz and below.

Sounds staging is very important, and maybe my ears will be convinced when i finally get around to doing this cars sound correctly. I plan on (for the first time) sparing no expense in components for the install.

I'll post when its time, but im sure i'll be asking for some good mid bass recommendations. =]

5speed6 v.2

...that I am finishing up.

The subwoofer will only be to reinforce the lowest of the frequencies, from 20hz to 90hz.

Click on the link in my sig (Part VI) to see the dual 6 1/2" mid-bass set up.

A4darkness

I love the Audio Forum. You guys took this to a whole new level. Great food for thought here.

A4darkness

I meant a sub thats tighter + recoils faster rather than one that pushes more air [as stated above]