Anyone know if 200 grit sand paper is finer than 1000 grit sand paper? TIA
04-07-2003, 04:32 PM
#3
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I don't know what you're doing, but don't mess around with anything
more aggressive than 1500 grit (smaller number means more course sandpaper). Frankly I would advice against wet sanding at all, unless you have absolutely nothing to lose.
04-07-2003, 05:25 PM
#5
assuming the paint layer has been built up slowly and allowed to dry completely...
wet sanding will bring it down to level with surrounding paint. trick i learned was to take a paper hole punch and make some dots of 1000 and 1500 grit paper (2000 also if available).
glue the dots to brand new pencil with new erasers. allow to dry completely.
now use the erasers with the coarse grit and a dropper of water to bring down the level. once the repair is close to level switch to each finer eraser (mark the pencil shaft with the grade attached).
using a photographers loupe (10x mag) view the repair before sanding to make sure it's full of paint. and use it again with sanding to confirm the levelness.
finally switch to a cotton jeweler's glove and dip a finger in an abrasive polish, apply, dry wipe clean. move to a non abrasive polish and dip a different finger; repeat process, using the loupe to confirm smoothness. now wait 1-2 days and finish with a wax.
this can give a nearly invisible repair. if you cleaned the chip well first, applied very thin layers of paint (use a square tooth pick) not over filling with pigmented paint and then using a clear coat for the last 2 layers.
mistakes i've made include too much paint at each step, not allowing enough drying time and over buffing the surrounding area that didn't need it. a way to avoid this last error is to use your paper hole punch to make holes in masking tape and apply over the chip before starting. makes it easier to find the chips in the later steps when fresh paint has been applied, and keep the abrasive steps to a small spot.
good luck
glue the dots to brand new pencil with new erasers. allow to dry completely.
now use the erasers with the coarse grit and a dropper of water to bring down the level. once the repair is close to level switch to each finer eraser (mark the pencil shaft with the grade attached).
using a photographers loupe (10x mag) view the repair before sanding to make sure it's full of paint. and use it again with sanding to confirm the levelness.
finally switch to a cotton jeweler's glove and dip a finger in an abrasive polish, apply, dry wipe clean. move to a non abrasive polish and dip a different finger; repeat process, using the loupe to confirm smoothness. now wait 1-2 days and finish with a wax.
this can give a nearly invisible repair. if you cleaned the chip well first, applied very thin layers of paint (use a square tooth pick) not over filling with pigmented paint and then using a clear coat for the last 2 layers.
mistakes i've made include too much paint at each step, not allowing enough drying time and over buffing the surrounding area that didn't need it. a way to avoid this last error is to use your paper hole punch to make holes in masking tape and apply over the chip before starting. makes it easier to find the chips in the later steps when fresh paint has been applied, and keep the abrasive steps to a small spot.
good luck
04-07-2003, 05:50 PM
#6
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Very nice technique on the little sanding disks, though I might just use a bit of
rubber cement to put them directly on my finger tip. I think you'd have better control/feel. Whatcha think?
04-07-2003, 06:47 PM
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Hmmmm, you've just infused me with some newfound confidence...
I've got some ugly rock chips on my hood from a trip to NH. Some careful work using your technique will surely make it look better. I doubt I'll get it perfect again, but it can't really get any worse than it is.
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04-07-2003, 06:50 PM
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counterpoint...
a pencil held with two fingers is a little easier to control, and less fatiguing than a single finger. Try both on your desktop (that's what I just did), and you'll decide for yourself which you would prefer.
04-07-2003, 08:34 PM
#9
haven't tried it that way...so don't know, but...
a box of 12 pencils allows the making of 3-4 mini sanders of each grit. the new erasers make for a flat, flexibly firm sanding pad. the mini discs are sized to fit (my finger tips are too large) the dots. also your hands stay clean while working.
the sanders should be made in advance so the glue is very dry. this is really a 4-5 day process:
d1. select the chips, clean chips with dental pick, alcohol and buff with an clean eraser. make the sanders, check for good touch up paint. go buy a loupe and anything else needed. mask the chips. work on 1-2 the first time. after working the complete process skill will be refined. next time do all the rest.
d2. apply first layer of color paint. very small amount only to center of defect; allow paint to spread to edges and don't touch it again or a surface defect will form on paint film. 4-6 hours later 2nd coat. if color is uniform stop now..
d3. clear coat (dilute if not near "water" consistency. 4-6 hours later second coat. once completely dry surface may be just higher than surrounding paint. that's perfect.
d4. maybe be ready to sand, but unless it's been really warm out wait another day or 2 for the leveling process.
d6/7. sand, polish, remove masking tape
d8. wax
d8------>enjoy
the sanders should be made in advance so the glue is very dry. this is really a 4-5 day process:
d1. select the chips, clean chips with dental pick, alcohol and buff with an clean eraser. make the sanders, check for good touch up paint. go buy a loupe and anything else needed. mask the chips. work on 1-2 the first time. after working the complete process skill will be refined. next time do all the rest.
d2. apply first layer of color paint. very small amount only to center of defect; allow paint to spread to edges and don't touch it again or a surface defect will form on paint film. 4-6 hours later 2nd coat. if color is uniform stop now..
d3. clear coat (dilute if not near "water" consistency. 4-6 hours later second coat. once completely dry surface may be just higher than surrounding paint. that's perfect.
d4. maybe be ready to sand, but unless it's been really warm out wait another day or 2 for the leveling process.
d6/7. sand, polish, remove masking tape
d8. wax
d8------>enjoy
