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Help! 2nd coat of Meguiars show car glaze is a PITA!

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Old 09-28-2002, 07:59 AM
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Default Help! 2nd coat of Meguiars show car glaze is a PITA!

Is it necessary to do a second coat of the #7 show car glaze? I'm applying with a 6" rotary buffer - waiting 20 minutes or so and then *attempting* to buff off. Aargh. The first coat ( same process) worked much, much better.

I find that in some areas I am simply putting too much product on.. so I'm attempting to take care of that.

Suggestions?

TIA!
Old 09-28-2002, 01:26 PM
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RKA
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Default Don't have any experience with that, but with 3M IHG, I buff immediately.

Many of these types of products become a royal PITA to buff out if you let them dry. The longer they dry, the harder they become to buff. The more heat or sun they are exposed to, the harder they become to buff out.
Old 09-28-2002, 02:17 PM
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let IHG dry for 20minutes and you're gonna need a belt sander
Old 09-28-2002, 03:53 PM
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Does that remove the swirl marks?
Old 09-29-2002, 04:41 AM
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sure does.. just gives you a lot of straight marks though :/
Old 09-29-2002, 04:58 PM
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I've found show car glaze to be rediculous to buff off. IHG is much better in my HO.
Old 09-29-2002, 06:59 PM
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LOL! Maybe if I mod it, and put microfiber on the belt? :-P
Old 09-30-2002, 01:56 PM
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Default No one should be buffing it off at all. You basically just continue to buff it in until it is

nice and glossy. You don't need to let it dry at all, probably the reason you are having problems.

-st
Old 09-30-2002, 02:12 PM
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Default I would do it by hand and use the trick in my routine, easier to buff off and doesn't dry . . .

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/detail/msgs/180.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/detail/msgs/180.phtml</a</li></ul>
Old 10-01-2002, 06:48 AM
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Default As others have already said: No need to let it dry at all. Also sounds like you're using too much.

With wax (or should I say most waxes), you're letting it dry so that it leaves behind a thin hardened layer of protection. With glaze this isn't the objective. The benefit from glaze is realized immediately once you've applied it correctly, so there's no need to allow it extra time to dry. In addition, if you're doing it right there really shouldn't be much left <i>to</i> dry. The idea is to work it into the paint (you're using a buffer, so that should be happening just fine), until it's virtually gone, nothing but a very fine haze left to wipe off. At that point its work is done and the residue can be removed right away. Again, this isn't wax, so there's no need to leave behind a visible layer once you're applied it (most of us use too much paste wax too, but at least it's easier to remove when dry).


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