Brake groan
Make sure you have a deep-drive socket or box end wrench to open the bleeder screw located behind the caliper. Attach a piece of 1/4" vacume hose to it. Make sure it is long enough to reach to the bottle or coffee can that you will have on the ground to catch the run off.
Remove the cap from the Master Cylinder and leave it off. pour in some NEW brake fluid. If you don't see fluid coming out of the bleeder screw, press the brake pedal and hold it for a few seconds, then check again. Brake fluid should be flowing slowly out.
If you still have no fluid coming out, and the bleeder screw is loose, you probably have a leaky caliper.
The other method requires two people, one to push the brake pedal, and one to work the bleeder screws.
Loosen the bleeder screw with a box-end wrench. the other person pushes the brake pedal down and holds until fluid stops flowing. Tighten the screw with the peddal still down. let up off the brake after that and repeat untill no air bubbles are found. Don't forget to add brake fluid as you go, or you will be repeating the process for a very long time.
The goal of brake bleeding is to remove air from the brake lines. This is done because air compresses quite well, and brake fluid does not. Air in the brake lines will cause uneven braking, usually evidenced by a pull to one side when slowing or stopping. This is not the same as uneven pad wear, whereby the inner or outer pad wears more than the other.
I would look to a local problem on the noisy wheel, not a central problem like air in system. Unless you just had a brake job, how would the air get in, anyway?



