dB

I've been checking into O2 sensor prices. It seems that the 4KS is requiring a special sensor that costs heaps of money. Shouldn't a universal (~$70) fit????

MikTip

Plus I ran the "non heated" version and saved more $$$$.

Be advised if you live in an area which does cold start emission checks, you car may not pass without the heated 02 sensor.

Longwolf (Christian)

The only difference bewteen the OEM and the universal was that on the universal you have to splice the wires in the OEM O2 harness since it doesn't come with the right conncector. But I saved about $80, so who cares!

dB

Thanks! That's what I was hoping to hear. I couldn't imagine why my lowly 4000S would be special.

Jeff Doble

I bought an '86 4kS about two months ago and there is a funny check engine light problem with it. Every now and again I get a check engine light and the engine seems to cut power. When I turn the car off and then back on again the light will go out for a while, ranging from 2 days to 2 weeks and the car will run great.

When the check engine light comes on, does the car go into a 'limp mode' or something that would explain the loss of power.

JD

dB

Mine was doing it really bad when it got cold last fall. The funny thing is that when I replaced my rear muffler because it was swiss cheese and loud, it appeared to go away for the longest time. Recently, it's done it once or twice. It seems to be worse when the engine's cold and once it got some heat into it, I could turn it off and back on and the light would go out. The light has something to do with the knock computer. You can get the "error code" by inserting a fuse in that special relay and it will give you a direction to look. I really haven't spent that much time, since there's other things to fix on the car. You're right, it really loses power (unless you get it above 3000 rpms or so.) If you ever figure it out, please post it. I'll do the same if I find the exact cause.

dB

I don't think the O2 sensor is coupled into this knock computer. I think the only inputs into the knock computer is the knock sensor on the engine and a vacuum line. I haven't checked but since the cars are so old, it may be a crummy vacuum hose or line.

Jeff Doble

http://mansell.stucen.gatech.edu/wwwboard/wwwboard.html

I tried a few weeks ago without success although I didn't explain the problem very thoroughly when I posted. Maybe I will try again when I get some time.

As long as the car keeps 'correcting' itself I am not going to spend time and money tracking the problem down. However, I have a hole in my muffler so hopefully when I replace it, the light will go away for a while.

I read somewhere that if the oil pressure drops below a certain level, the light will come one. If there is an oil leak, or the oil viscosity is incorrect (Haynes recommends 20W50?!?!?) could this be causing the light to go on? I've only had the car for a couple of months now and I was surprised to see that grade of oil recommended. German cars sure are unique.

Jeff

dB

I've been using 10W40, which I know everyone hates but my dad and I have been using it for decades and it fits the temperature range I live in. I tried 20W50 in a Rabbit one time during the summer. The first time I put it in, it took minutes to build oil pressure. Scared me to death. I went back to 10W40.

I'll have to check that website out.

Thanks,
dB