Bauer

chain control will waive you through no problem.

kryzak

Haven't used it yet, but supposed to work for AWDs and supposedly very easy to install.

Just went to Tahoe this past weekend (2/9-11) and never had to put chains on once, nor did I ever feel like I had to, even with the crazy snow over the summits. The Quattro and ContiExtremes worked very well!<ul><li><a href="http://www.scc-chain.com/Traction%20Pages/Trac_SZ6.html">http://www.scc-chain.com/Traction%20Pages/Trac_SZ6.html</a</li></ul>

Crapple0

you can damage your torsen diff using that or any other traction device that alters the rolling diameter of your wheel.

kryzak

the owners manual says you can use chains, on the front tires, as long as its clearance requirement is very small, which this cable satisfies. Nowhere in the manual does it say that you should not use any cables or chains.

Please cite some backup material to support your statement. Thanks.

Crapple0

i know my manual for my 2001.5 says not to use chains

kryzak

and it said that all I have to worry about is the clearance issue.

Audiboy

speeds?
Using chains is mainly a matter of clearance. On a very slippery slope, the unchained axle can overheat brakes (EDL) and stress the torsen.
But on a slippery slope, even chains won't help any car get off trouble since they would eventually end up on a ditch or gully.

The Torsen is forgiving with front/rear differential speeds. It is in fact a differential. Clutches like the Haldex are not.

Crapple0

the difference in speeds when turning is temporary, lasting a few seconds. hours of driving with chains is a different story.

Audiboy

front and rear diff with the worst case being lock to lock turning. If it isn't designed to do this, then Audi needs to design the vehicles with 50:50 weight distribution and exactly the same alignment specs front to rear. And you can't turn - or hop skip jump like a part-time 4x4 turning on concrete.

When difference in torque is being applied to either axle, it is because the vehicle is most likely not moving forward in a normal fashion. If it is, there is not much difference in torque requirement between the two axles.

Ok, picture this.

Let's say you have brand 225/40 R18 tires. Tread depth is about 7 to 8 mm.

Let's say your car has an aggressive stance with lots of front camber and fat wheels with less offset.
#1 - that already changes your effective rolling diameter with respect to the rear and the vertical axis. Don't believe me? do the math

#2 - You have 60/40 weight distribution. Matched tire pressures? then that means you made your already smaller front rolling diameter even less.

#3 - You wear out the inside of your front tires because of the aggressive stance. You ate up 6 of the 7 or 8 mm threads you actually have.
Guess what this does? Let's say at 2700 RPM and 5th, you are rolling 60MPH with a brand new tire with the 50:50 weight distribution and equal tire pressure + equal alignment virtual car. What about a worn out tire? Well, the rim is rolling at an equivalent speed of 60.89 MPH.

Have you seen any long term Torsen damaged Audis because their front vs rear tires are worn?

Great so now you ignored the worn out inside thread and eat about 2mm more to the point that you have a flat.

You put on a spare.
1st, you'll be lucky if you have full size - because at least you can drive far

2nd, you'll be lucky if you have a full size with exactly the same thread and tire pressure as the 3 other tires, so that you don't worry about the Torsen.

But you're not any of the above, and you install the Audi supplied donut (on some cars). Great - Torsen is going to blow up right? [buzzzt] try again.

There's your long term check right there.

Crapple0

pretty hard to exceed that with different tire pressures. not too hard with chains.