After over 20 dyno runs, can't identify the problem...
#1
After over 20 dyno runs, can't identify the problem...
I've previously posted a power loss issue with my KO4 kit (GIAC chip)after a few laps around the track. Most of you suggested an aftermarket intercooler. The monkey wrench in the whole situation was that another KO4 kit (MTM) with stock intercooler experienced no power loss during the entire ~20 laps on the same day (same exact car/year). I have a 2000 A4 1.8TQM.
I went to KTR Performance in Ayer, MA in hope of finding out if there are other issues with my car. The quality of service at KTR was pretty impressive... their facility was amazing. Franz, the head technitian, did all the work. Peak power recorded was 165hp at the wheels. After several runs, the power dropped a little over 25hp. Interestingly, there was another customer's KO4 run on the archive that showed in a peak horse power of ~173hps, which peaked at around 5300 RPM, rougly 400 RPM after mine and it was much more peaky. Anyway, the inlet temp went up to mid-90s Celsius. I'm guessing that all these dyno runs still do not accurately similate the actual track condition. Anyway, de didn't think an aftermarket intercooler will be a full solution to my problem (will help but couldn't justify the cost of the part and labor... he was against the idea of running a front-mount). He insisted that I run cooler spark plugs. So, my question is, do you guys know the part number/identification code for the cooler spark plug I should be running on my car? Any thoughts?
I went to KTR Performance in Ayer, MA in hope of finding out if there are other issues with my car. The quality of service at KTR was pretty impressive... their facility was amazing. Franz, the head technitian, did all the work. Peak power recorded was 165hp at the wheels. After several runs, the power dropped a little over 25hp. Interestingly, there was another customer's KO4 run on the archive that showed in a peak horse power of ~173hps, which peaked at around 5300 RPM, rougly 400 RPM after mine and it was much more peaky. Anyway, the inlet temp went up to mid-90s Celsius. I'm guessing that all these dyno runs still do not accurately similate the actual track condition. Anyway, de didn't think an aftermarket intercooler will be a full solution to my problem (will help but couldn't justify the cost of the part and labor... he was against the idea of running a front-mount). He insisted that I run cooler spark plugs. So, my question is, do you guys know the part number/identification code for the cooler spark plug I should be running on my car? Any thoughts?
#3
Did he offer any specific reasons why he was against an FMIC?
I'm a strong dual SMIC proponent and with all the hype surrounding FMIC's it's always good to hear a professional's (not a vendor's) reasoned opinion and experience.
Thanks!
BTW my 1.8T has a K03S+ (from the BEX 190 HP 1.8T) and the HP (and boost) falls off after 5400 RPM (MAHA dyno).
Thanks!
BTW my 1.8T has a K03S+ (from the BEX 190 HP 1.8T) and the HP (and boost) falls off after 5400 RPM (MAHA dyno).
#4
Re: There was an intercooler discussion a few weeks ago...
ago started by DougR. I didn't get into deatails with him (I had other issues that were bothering me more). He said, I quote, people with FMIC really don't know what they are getting themselves into." He briefly talked about how much better airflow you get from the SMIC with vented wheelwell liner and the negative effect a FMIC has on other components like the radiator.
Regarding the other KO4 dyno (don't know which chip), the hp curve is almost triangular where as my kit (GIAC) has much flatter curve. For example, mine hits 125whp at ~3200RPM whereas the other kit hit 125whp at ~3750RPM. Around 5950RPM, his horsepower falls off below mine. At 6500RPM, his is ~22hp lower than mine.
His kit hold >18PSI all the way to 5000RPM whereas mine goes below 18PSI at 4600RPM. At 2900RPM, my kit pumps out ~23PSI whereas his pumps out a little over 19PSI... mine has ~40hp more at this low RPM. Simlar torque curve... leaves me wondering after the initial strong pull, where is the beef. His air/fuel mix looks all out of whack... lean to rich to lean. I'm no expert at this... take it for what it's worth.
Regarding the other KO4 dyno (don't know which chip), the hp curve is almost triangular where as my kit (GIAC) has much flatter curve. For example, mine hits 125whp at ~3200RPM whereas the other kit hit 125whp at ~3750RPM. Around 5950RPM, his horsepower falls off below mine. At 6500RPM, his is ~22hp lower than mine.
His kit hold >18PSI all the way to 5000RPM whereas mine goes below 18PSI at 4600RPM. At 2900RPM, my kit pumps out ~23PSI whereas his pumps out a little over 19PSI... mine has ~40hp more at this low RPM. Simlar torque curve... leaves me wondering after the initial strong pull, where is the beef. His air/fuel mix looks all out of whack... lean to rich to lean. I'm no expert at this... take it for what it's worth.
#6
Well what was his reasoning to colder plugs?
they will help if you are getting a ton of knock which is pulling the timing. Get some cheap NGK BKR7E's...not like it can hurt. But I would log knock count on the VAG and see what you're getting.
Do you have any requested vs actual boost logs?
Do you have any requested vs actual boost logs?
#7
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well maybe the RPM calc is off a little
I wouldn't be as concerned about curves and where you make power as keeping the power as the car warms up. It would be useful to see knock voltages and timing and timing retard logs for the runs. The colder plugs are a good lpace to start.
As for the FMIC being more of an issue than it helps, I can't comment on that. People don't seem to be complaining about coolant temps with FMIC's. I saw some link to an MTM explanation to the TT crowd and them being against FMIC's as well. I've seen nothing but good input about them and I'm looking forward to slapping my DUH FMIC on the car. I know that a Shine employee(in Walpole MA) has some older FWD audi (a 90 I think) with a 1.8T swap and some older. huge Saab FMIC on it. So I don't think Shine is anti FMIC.
I agree that you shouldn't need an FMIC to solve your problem. I think doing some logs will help out with that.
As for the FMIC being more of an issue than it helps, I can't comment on that. People don't seem to be complaining about coolant temps with FMIC's. I saw some link to an MTM explanation to the TT crowd and them being against FMIC's as well. I've seen nothing but good input about them and I'm looking forward to slapping my DUH FMIC on the car. I know that a Shine employee(in Walpole MA) has some older FWD audi (a 90 I think) with a 1.8T swap and some older. huge Saab FMIC on it. So I don't think Shine is anti FMIC.
I agree that you shouldn't need an FMIC to solve your problem. I think doing some logs will help out with that.
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#9
Re: I'm sure if I asked him more he would have gone into details...
we didn't get into the conversation very deep... it was very late Friday night... we were all rushing to get out of there.
#10
ROFLMAO.......If you have a K04, and you think it's not heat soak, you're nuts.......
I have one too. FMIC helped, but it still heatsoaks.
You just have to face the fact that it's a tiny turbo pumping out stupendously hot air at high boost levels, and that heat soak is nearly unavoidable under road-race consditions.
The MTM car is still getting heat soaked. I guarantee it.
You just have to face the fact that it's a tiny turbo pumping out stupendously hot air at high boost levels, and that heat soak is nearly unavoidable under road-race consditions.
The MTM car is still getting heat soaked. I guarantee it.