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Compression question...

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Old Dec 6, 2002 | 08:14 AM
  #11  
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Default good point. I never comp tested a dbw car. On cabled cars, there's a hole somewhere for air to

sneak in so, most of the time, depressing the accelerator doesn't improve it much - but the reading just rises up faster on the 1st few cranks but levels off to the same level. I usually crank about 8 times
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Old Dec 6, 2002 | 08:16 AM
  #12  
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Default buy compression tester from Auto parts store or Sears, take off spark plugs...

which of course means take off coils 1st. screw in comp tester in spark plug hole being careful not to drop any debri in the other open plug holes. get inside cockpit and crank away. Record reading, bleed off trapped pressure and repeat on next cylinder.
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Old Dec 6, 2002 | 08:30 AM
  #13  
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Default On a non dbw you want to hold the throttle at 100%.

On a dbw the thottle plate does not work so you can take it off by just removing the 4 bolts that hold it to the manifold. I did not do that but I was only looking to see if all 4 cylinders matched. Not like all 4 are going to go bad at the same time unless a head gasket goes out.

The main cylinder to keep an eye out for is #4, it is usually the first one to go.
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Old Dec 6, 2002 | 10:58 AM
  #14  
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Default You don't have too. Remember, the cylinders are moving about 200rpm....

Air will enter fast enough through the throttle butterfly not sealed 100%, the idle control valve, the PCV, etc. One more thing, if all plugs are removed, and the cam has an overlap (as all stock do), then air enters through the open plug holes into the slighlty open intake valves to fill the manifold

Remember, that a car idles at around 800rpm and gets close to 100% cylinder filling at idle without any foot on the pedal. That's why if you don't open a throttle while comp testing, you just have to crank a few more times - like 1-2 to get max pressure.

Try it, you'll see.

On a dbw, just pull out a large vacuum hose. No need to take off the throttle plate - but of course, I have yet to do a comp test on one.

BTW, I have 2 comp testers, one is about 16 years old since that's how long I've been using it - in the shop over hundreds of cars. Works good as it's a MAC and I never drop it
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Old Dec 6, 2002 | 11:40 AM
  #15  
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Default When I did my stock motor while I had the compression problem I got

a low of 120 and the highest was 165 which meant I did have a few cylinders down. Now with the new 8:1 compression motor I show a 135 psi in all 4 cylinders. I think the stock 9.5:1 was around 170-180 psi. Only problem is that I have never checked a good stock motor, but I will have a chance to check a 2001 9.3:1 motor tonight.
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Old Dec 6, 2002 | 12:25 PM
  #16  
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Default I can check our TT this weekend too for reference. Since suppossedly it's 9:1

plus I'll see if I have to mod anything to do a dbw check now that I'm curious
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Old Dec 7, 2002 | 02:31 AM
  #17  
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Default Re: Compression question...

I have between 140-150 psi in non-dbw, but the compression ratio has been dropped a bit. plus motor has about 40K miles on it now.

The 135 is that cylinder 4 or 1?
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Old Dec 7, 2002 | 09:24 AM
  #18  
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Default Well I tested that 2001 last night.

Took out all the plugs and checked each cylinder 1 at a time and they showed exactly 185 psi for each cylinder.
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Old Dec 7, 2002 | 02:42 PM
  #19  
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Default But your motor has 9:1 compression and I just tested a stock 9.3:1

2001 motor with 20K miles on it and it still put out 185 psi for every cylinder. I will do the exact same test on my 8:1 and see what I come out with since it has about 5K miles on it now.
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Old Dec 9, 2002 | 06:23 AM
  #20  
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Default Re: Compression question...

I'm not sure to be honest, the mechanic gave me this sequence 140,140,140,135. I'm gonna find out. I also noticed with the sluggish sensation that my boost gauge reads a little different. At cruising speed the Vac reads at 2-5 and not 10 as before (psi). I'm pretty sure this is related to the sluggish sensation. It is very hard to explain but something is not right.

Mau
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