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Crack in my exhaust manifold...Can this be fixed? see picture.....

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Old 06-01-2003, 06:32 PM
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Default Crack in my exhaust manifold...Can this be fixed? see picture.....

<center><img src="http://members.***.net/livinotte/ABY%20conversion/00000006.JPG"></center><p>Soo..I don't know much about welding.. but can this be fixed?
Old 06-01-2003, 08:03 PM
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Default Re: Crack in my exhaust manifold...Can this be fixed? see picture.....

It needs ground down a bit, but can be welded. Same things happen with the old 1-piece 10vt manifolds...Didn't know it happened with the ABy motors too?
Old 06-01-2003, 08:46 PM
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i have a funny feeling I know why there is a crack there....but lets leave it at that.
Old 06-02-2003, 08:07 AM
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Default Yup...

...it can be done. You should not weld it when the manifold is stone cold. Hot is fine. You need to use a die grinder to notch it and then use Nickel-99 to stick weld it. Take the computer out first (I don't know why but everyone says to).

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Old 06-02-2003, 09:28 AM
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Default Re: Yup...

Computer removal is due to the chance that welding on the car can damage them, as you use the chassis as the TIG or MIG welder's ground...
Old 06-02-2003, 12:44 PM
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Default well the engine is out of the car, and I am rebuilding the externals, so I will be just dropping.,..

it off at a place. But thanks for the info. Highly appreciated.
Old 06-02-2003, 03:23 PM
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Default Let's be practical...

...I've welded quite a few things on quite a few cars. I have never had a radio, climate control, alarm, etc go bad because of the welding. What makes the ECU different from these other electronic components?

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Old 06-02-2003, 03:24 PM
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Make damn sure they use Nickel 99!
Old 06-02-2003, 04:07 PM
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Default I found that ECU removal comment absurd BTW. Any electrical engineer can contest that...

The ECU and other electronic components have fixed 12V between the positive and negative supply 'planes' (when engine is off of course).

It should not matter if there are other power supplies (like a 'welder') using one plane whether it be the positive or negative because the ECU or other components would only see the battery 12V between it. This is true even if the body of the car was hooked up to one of the 240V power lines of a dryer. Sure the person standing bare feet on concrete who touches the car will get shocked. But as for the components in the car, all they see is 12V, irrespective of what that 'ground' voltage is reference to earth. Disclaimer: this behavior may change if the main contact of the car to earth is not the tires - i.e jack, stands or hoist ;P

If it were true that ECU's had to be removed, Midas and other muffler shops would have lost business a long time ago

BTW, there is no difference these days on components in the car for the air bag, ABS, navigation, radio, transmission, climate control, etc as you pointed out. Sure there is internal voltage converters and regulators to run internal components at lower voltage (i.e 5V), but for the most part, from the outside world, they are all as sensitive.

Note, if one touches the positive battery post with the probe of the welder (mig, tig, etc) while the ground is hooked up to the body of the car - or ground of the battery, then that person is directly influencing the voltage seen by the components and could easily damage them. That of course is if the battery doesn't explode first ;P

IMO, the O2 sensors are the most sensitive components on the car. The air bag igniter is next as according to one of the top Audi Techs in the country, one can lite it up with a single AA battery.
Old 06-02-2003, 04:25 PM
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i actually saved your post and printed it out, I just got to finally removing the exhaust manifold


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