Sleeper1.8T

is it to do? Is it something one could do at home or best left to an engine shop? If shop, what's it usually run? Anyone recommend any certain brands of hardware?
The reason I ask is I want to build as much reliability into the motor as possible. I'd like to get up around 300hp, and I know it can be done without changing the internals, but I want to keep my options open. Pushing 20+ PSI into a cast piece makes me a little uneasy when thinking of long term reliability (120K mi or so). TIA

StevenH

The stock internals should be more than fine for 300hp as long as the car is well tuned.

Sleeper1.8T

I am looking at the PES kit as well as Ecode's GT-28R coming out. I'm also thinking about putting a kit together through ATP along with the DIY software that is soon to come out from Revo and others. Bottom line, I just want something that will last. I drive pretty hard, but I take care of my cars too. You said your rebuild is overbored. Was there not a stroker kit from JE or anyone? Any help you can give me would be great. I am trying to gather as much knowledge as I can. Thanks again.

Ray Khan

if you are going to build and engine for 300 crank hp, then you are wasting your $$$. Just get a kit and leave the engine alone. If you are going to build the engine, I would go for more power. 300 at the wheel on pump at least.

StevenH

the motor will be fine as long as the tuning is good. Many other people have had the same issues I did with the PES kit and believe the tuning is to blame. I am rebuilding my motor with 82mm Weisco pistons which should bump my displacement up to 1825cc. I would have loved to done a full stroker kit with a new forged crank and rods to bring me to a full 2L but, because I am an unemployed student I don't have the money sitting around to do that with. I am planning on messing around with one of the new programs that APR or GIAC will be releasing to fudge around with the tuning a little bit and hopefully give myself a safer tune.

Sleeper1.8T

torn apart an engine before. Additionally, I have heard that the 1.8 is not too difficult to do, but I wanted to get more insight. As far as the set up goes, I would like as much hp as possible, but the more you build over 300, the more lag you have to deal with, IMHO. I can't deal with a dog up to 4K, then a huge kick in the ***. Especially since the stock gearbox is such that shifts are usually required at about 5500. Doesn't leave much room to wind.
As I said before, I want lots of power, but I also want reliability. I know these motors are quite strong, but I also know that the internals are now cast. I am sure they are quite strong castings, but they still aren't as strong as forged. Plus, now I'm hearing issues on the T-28 (refer to Steve's reply for an example), and that's only 270hp. I know tuning is a huge deal, but one has to start with a good base to be successful. I'm looking for about 120K mi or so from this motor, so I need reliability.

I had a '73 Super beetle when I was a teenager. It had an 1853cc with cam, crank, oil cooler, etc, and I blew it three times because it was running too lean (long story, but comes down to smog issues). Blowing a bug motor is fine, but I don't want to run into the same type of problems with this car. Tuning is always fun, but not if you have to worry all the time about pushing it too hard and breaking. If that were the case, then what's the point?

xr4tic

There are many people running 300hp on a totally stock block, so spend the money on the turbo stuff first, and get to the 300hp level.

Then, if you still have money left in the budget, try and find yourself another block to work on the side, and slowly build it up. If you want to do it right, you're looking at $4K-$5K, just for the short block (no head or turbo stuff)

xr4tic

that's the turbo choking the power out, it has nothing to do with the trans.

7000 RPM is no problem with a big turbo.

As for Steve's car, it was detonation that killed his motor. I don't care if you've dropped $10K to build up your motor, detonation will still kill it just as easily.

This further backs up my suggestion above. Build the turbo side first and tune it. If you blow the motor up due to bad tuning, then you'll have another one waiting, whereas if you drop in your brand new motor, and blow it up from bad tuning, you'll be VERY pissed.

Building a motor isn't really that hard. It's just mainly paying attention to details, the rings have to be set correctly on the pistons, pistons put in the right way, everything lubed up with break-in lube, etc, etc.

It's like building a model, just make sure you have good directions

Sleeper1.8T

Do you have any input on where to acquire a block? Are there new ones out somewhere or is it best to comb the junk yards? Any input on internals? forged crank, JE pistons, Schrick cams, valves, etc? I will definitely be on a budget, so this side project could take a while. When you said 4K-5K, were speaking of just the block, or to do internals as well?

I'm like a sponge for all of this, so whatever info you can part with, I would greatly appreciate it. Obviously, I'd eventually transfer over my original head (ported/polished, of course), along with intake, turbo, software, etc. Correct? Thanks again for the info.

As far as the 5500 shift point I was speaking of, I know the stock turbo runs out of gas up there, but I also know that redline isn't much further off. As far as gearing goes, I'm sure you know, it doesn't have the most aggressive ratios out there, and I don't really know what it and the Torsen will hold, so I'm a little apprehensive to shove a whole bunch of power through it at higher rpm too. Any input? Thanks again. And if it's not too much trouble, I'd like to bug you from time to time as I go.

201-A4

Who is Ecode's ?