xr4tic

Try <a href="http://car-part.com" target="_blank">http://car-part.com</a>

Other than that, just keep your eyes open, you never know where you might find one.

About $4k for the short block: block, crank, rods, pistons, machine work, gaskets, etc.
No turbo or head work.

So basically, yes, just build the block up, then swap everything over.

The 1.8T gears are pretty aggressive, too short IMHO, and I'd much rather have the same RPM drop in every gear, but that's just not possible. I think the trans will hold up, the clutch will probably be the weak point.

SameerP

Once again, ignorance and attitude are not a good mix. You came into our world to ask a question, and a couple people cautioned you, you should take it as helpful advice, keep asking your questions.

None of us have a thing to gain or lose here if you blow up your engine it matters not one whit to me or anyone else here, so anyone who responds to your request for information is only trying to help you, because it would suck to see someone tear into their new engine and get stuck, or end up with a pile of parts that don't mesh.

Here's the problem, you are asking about very advanced stuff, when you appear to have no experience with it, don't have the budget (by your admission) to do it, and don't even know such basics like the fact your stock KO3 sport runs out of steam at 5500rpm. So of course people are going to warn you first. It would be irresponsible of us not to!

Anywho, spend some time on XR4Tic's website to get a taste of a DIY ABA 2.0 conversion, that is one of the best resources around...and will tell you if you have the patience and skill to try his path. If you go that path then ATP will be a great resource for you for parts like wastegates, manifolds, FPRs and MAF housings, and PES will sell you their T28 software so you can run software that might be close to what you need as a band-aid.

The awd system and tranny are fine to handle the power, though your clutch will have to get replaced before you expect to hold real power. My OEM clutch lasted 2 weeks with my T28.

Eurosport sells prepared blocks if that is your fancy as well. Innovative and ECS will build you 2.0L motors, and do all the work as well. Ask BIG NIPPER about info on his setup.

With an existing off the shelf kit and 100 octane/FMIC/test pipe you can run very low 13's, maybe high 12s, so if you need faster than that, go custom. Problem is custom and cheap do not go hand in hand, and there is no support from some vendor.

Finally, there is a search feature enabled for this forum you should try just in case this question has been asked before.

Keep in mind that just because Ray did not respond to you directly, does not mean he didn't take offense to your being "resentful." The better barometer would be whether he tries to help again.

Cheers,
Sameer

Sleeper1.8T

1, how much can a guy apologize and clear things up?
2, **** you. You wanna talk soap box, you are the one who seems to think that only certain people contain the knowledge to do things. If I was on a soap box, I would never have asked a question in the first place. Get with the program. I was stroking your ego by asking in the first place.
3, John didn't seem to think that building the motor would be any more difficult than "building a model. You just have to pay attention to detail and follow good directions." And I tend to agree with him.

I can handle flack as much as the next guy, but I also appreciate mature, helpful people/answers when I ask questions. By just telling someone not to do something because you "don't want to see them kill something," you're not helping in any way. And if you are so concerned of others, wouldn't you want them to heed your advise, rather than someone else's who may not know what they are doing? Or even worse, go it alone without help. You are blowing this up way more than it ever needed to be. What's your deal? You haven't served up on piece of useful advice. Just bull****.

Sleeper1.8T

Ray, thank you very much for your straight forward answer. I really appreciate it.

Sleeper1.8T

Sameer, here is my original thread.

"is it to do? Is it something one could do at home or best left to an engine shop? If shop, what's it usually run? Anyone recommend any certain brands of hardware?
The reason I ask is I want to build as much reliability into the motor as possible. I'd like to get up around 300hp, and I know it can be done without changing the internals, but I want to keep my options open. Pushing 20+ PSI into a cast piece makes me a little uneasy when thinking of long term reliability (120K mi or so). TIA"

As you can see, I never once conveyed any idea that I was going to do this or even could. My question was simply to find out if it could be done reasonably, and if it was even necessary. I even put in there that that I'd take it to a shop if I had to. The problem arose in Ray's very first response. He immediately jumped to "no" and "you can't" before we even got into conversation. Just as you and Strato did.

I said that I don't have the money right now, that's why I haven't even picked up the turbo kit yet. I am simply doing research at this point. I know ATP is a good DIY source, I know I'll need a new clutch, etc, etc. I spoken with people at Garrett, Eurocode, ATP and Garrett's distributors. Although I haven't spoken to them about internals, I have done my homework.

I never got into any of the peripherals because that's not what I was asking. Had someone taken that conversation there in a helpful manner, I would have addressed them. I'm not trying to "build" a motor. I am simply looking to find out the reasonability and necessity of changing out some of the internals. As you can see, others have responded back in a helpful manner. That is all I was looking for in the first place.

On a more positive note, I do appreciate your info on reading material, sources, performance numbers, and the like. Although I do still resent your grill trim comment.

I hope this can all be laid to rest now because it was a dumb issue in the first place, and my hands are getting tired of typing. From this point on, I will be doind more research and asking more questions. And I will try to include more info up front, so I don't come off as ignorant. Oh, and yes, I do know about Search. This isn't my first day on the job. I just didn't find what I was looking for. Take it easy.

Sleeper1.8T

Just one more question for now, when you say $4k for a short block, is that the total cost of those components once I put in the ones I want (ie-forged pistons, rods, and crank), or is that the price with just the stock internals included in the short block purchase? Thanks again.

SameerP

cool

xr4tic

JE pistons, Carillo rods, etc I don't know of a good source for a forged crank, but I would guess it would be around $500 or so, so add that to the total.

Oh yeah, don't forget the lightweight flywheel and HD clutch, so tack on another $750 or so

Ray Khan

everything in the bottom end is all put together for you. I believe it's a balanced crank although a friend who bought one said he had to balance it some more. Basically it should be ready to do, slap on your head and throw it in the car. If you go that route, go 2.0 liter with the lower compression ratio.

Sleeper1.8T

Great! I'm guessing then that B5 cranks were not forged either? Definitely going for a new clutch/PP/Throwout, but the flywheel will be one of those things that will be budget defined. Would be nice to throw one in while I'm at it though. I'll probably end up with a Sachs or WOA or something. Whichever gives me the best combo of performance and longevity.

Lastly, I checked JE's website, and all I can find are 2L pistons for VWs. Do you know where I can find 1.8 pistons or JE's part number for them? This may be my ignorance coming out again.

Thanks again. You've been most helpful.