Problems... Problems....
The MAF shouldn't have any problem under pressure, the one I'm buying is designed for a blow-thru configuration
So one post you say it does use the O2, and the next you say it doesn't. You need to stop contradicting yourself. in this post you make it sound like the non-DBW car doesn't use the MAF at WOT, and must just guess how much fuel to use. That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard.
Another quote:
"His STFT should be around -5% and LTFT whould be around -15%, but as you can seen STFT has gone lean and LFTF has gone rich. It is just hard to acutally stay out of boost on a dbw since boost is set on motor and pedal loads with the dbw setup"
He never posted his STFT. In fact, you can't post it, as it is constantly changing. He posted his LTFT at idle and LTFT at part throttle.
You do know the difference between idle and part throttle, don't you Mike?
It's really easy to stay out of boost. Set the RPM and cruise on the highway. You'll be under vacuum - no boost.
I guess, theoretically, you can say the turbo is making boost, but it's still under vacuum, that means the motor is drawing more air than the turbo is providing.
The majority of the time you are at part throttle, and under vacuum conditions. So if you're leaking air, it's not going to be very much, so your LTFT may only be a little rich, as opposed to WOT you'll be leaking a lot of air, so it would be really rich, but once you go back to no-boost, your LTFT will go back to being a little rich.
Tell you what, go out to your car and run your turbo at 5 psi and tell me what it does, the car will end up running so rich it will look like your picture again. Then turn the boost up to 21psi and see if it leans out. At wot the non dbw goes to a fuel map only and the maf is no longer adjusting the fuel map.
BTW at a set fwy speed you are getting boost still it just is not enough to over come atmos pressure and the vacume of the motor, that is why it is at 10 vac at cruising speeds. It is not like the turbo is in a complete OFF mode, since exhaust gas still passes thru the turbo.
Sometimes, that's what I think about you and your relationship with GIAC and others.
You shouldn't use a boost controller on nonDBW, because it's not able to run more boost in the middle RPMs and taper off to redline. Split Second makes one for DBW, but that's because it taps into the stock boost sensor.
It makes no sense to not read the MAF at WOT. Not only is it bad for performance, it's bad for emissions, which is a big no-no for automotive companies.
At 21 psi, my injectors wouldn't be able to flow enough fuel, so of course it would go lean. the least amount of boost I can run is 10psi (that's what the wastegate spring is set for), but for arguments sake, let's say it can run those two pressures....
Tuners make the WOT fuel map rich, mostly because it helps control detonation and high intake temperatures.
So yes, running less boost will make it run richer, and here's why:
A 2.0, running at 6000rpm (90% VE, 0.75psi inlet drop and 1psi pressure drop)
at 5psi: 483 kg/hr
at 21psi: 875 kg/hr
so, according to your theory, it would run really rich. I'm not even sure it would run at all.
Let's say it was tuned for 12:1 at 21psi. At 5psi, injecting the same amount of fuel for 21psi would have ~ 6:1 ratio. That would drown the spark plugs out in a second, *cough* *sputter* *wheeze*
The reason it does run rich is because the fuel map is tuned for 21 psi, and the high intake temps it expects to see. at 5psi, the intake temps will be low, so the extra fuel that was supposed to help cool the mixture, just makes it extra rich.
"BTW at a set fwy speed you are getting boost still it just is not enough to over come atmos pressure and the vacume of the motor, that is why it is at 10 vac at cruising speeds. It is not like the turbo is in a complete OFF mode, since exhaust gas still passes thru the turbo."
No, I don't think so. Boost is defined as pressure in the intake. Look at a compressor map, the pressure ratio is defined as turbo ouput pressure + ATM / turbo input pressure + ATM.
If you're under vacuum, then the turbo isn't compressing the air, and pushing it into the motor, the motor is pulling the air in (hence the vacuum).
You can still pass exhaust gas through the turbo, but if the shaft RPM isn't enough, then you're not going to make any boost.
Any room uptop where most airboxes are? How about from the back like a sportquattro and then do a wraparound.
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BTW your boost gauge is in the manifold so as if the TB is at 50% you are still getting pressure pushed into the manifold but then since there is vacume of 20-25 in Hg made by the motor so your reading moves toward zero. Even at idle your vac should be around 15-20 in Hg, the amount of vac your motor makes is not going to be less at a set fwy speed but your gauge reads less.


