Question about pedal travel after brake mods....
#1
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Question about pedal travel after brake mods....
I just installed EBC Green pads up front, ABT SS lines all around and new front rotors. Motul 6 and bled the system. My pedal now travels much further before I feel the brakes start to engage.
The car stops fine with no odd sounds it's just that the pedal now travels about four inches, almost to the floor, before I start to slow.
The stock brakes grabbed right away at about an inch of travel.
Should I bleed the brakes again or is this normal based on the brake work done?
Thanks
The car stops fine with no odd sounds it's just that the pedal now travels about four inches, almost to the floor, before I start to slow.
The stock brakes grabbed right away at about an inch of travel.
Should I bleed the brakes again or is this normal based on the brake work done?
Thanks
#5
Sounds further than it should be...
Pedal will firm up at pads bed in. But 4" of travel would worry me. Drive, pump, hammer a few times, and then bleed again - would be my advice.
Be sure you bleed in the RR LR RF LF order, don't let any air into the reservor by letting it go dry as you bleed, and be sure all those little bleed nipples are snug and not leaking.
Be sure you bleed in the RR LR RF LF order, don't let any air into the reservor by letting it go dry as you bleed, and be sure all those little bleed nipples are snug and not leaking.
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#8
Sounds about right...once
...If the caliper pistons were pushed back for any reason, then your pedal will have to go down further, at least the first one or 2 pushes to reset the pads/calipers to be close to the rotors. Once this is done one time though it shouldnt happen again. If it does, then something else is going on.
For instance, if you have a warped or improperly seated rotor, it will push the pads further away when rotating than would be normal and you will have to push the pedal further each time to close the gap. Often a warped rotor will provide some pulsing feedback to the pedal and can also be felt in the steering wheel if on the front.
I recently went thru the lines swap - brake fluid replacement as well and had something similar to what you are feeling which is the other thing I can think of - air still in the system. I re-bled my brakes after driving around and activating the ABS a couple times. The first bleed was done with a vaccum one man bleeder. The second time I used the 2 man pressure method and ran an additional litre of fluid thru the system. That seemed to firm up the pedal. I think the vaccum system is not probably a good method for the Audi. I seem to draw a lot of air around the bleed screws (except the clutch bleed which was much better) and that may have limited how effective the method is at pulling fluid and removing air.
For instance, if you have a warped or improperly seated rotor, it will push the pads further away when rotating than would be normal and you will have to push the pedal further each time to close the gap. Often a warped rotor will provide some pulsing feedback to the pedal and can also be felt in the steering wheel if on the front.
I recently went thru the lines swap - brake fluid replacement as well and had something similar to what you are feeling which is the other thing I can think of - air still in the system. I re-bled my brakes after driving around and activating the ABS a couple times. The first bleed was done with a vaccum one man bleeder. The second time I used the 2 man pressure method and ran an additional litre of fluid thru the system. That seemed to firm up the pedal. I think the vaccum system is not probably a good method for the Audi. I seem to draw a lot of air around the bleed screws (except the clutch bleed which was much better) and that may have limited how effective the method is at pulling fluid and removing air.
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