Whose got a battery mounted in the rear of their A4?
#1
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Whose got a battery mounted in the rear of their A4?
I want details, where the wires were ran, how the battery box was attached, etc.
Here's what I've got so far:
Moroso battery box
Optima dry-cell battery
2-gauge cable
4-gauge cable
thru-panel battery connectors
Ford solenoid/relay
Here's what I need:
Remote Jumper terminals
Circuit Breaker or Fuse - big enough to handle the current draw of Everything (minus the starter)
I know you can buy 300 amp fuses and holder for stereo systems (between $30 to $70 for fuse and holder)
What I plan on doing:
Running two wires off the battery, one goes to a circuit breaker/fuse, which then goes to the main power of the car.
The other wire goes to a Ford solenoid/relay, which then goes to the starter.
The battery will be grounded somewhere in the trunk.
This way, if a short happens, I'm protected, since the main power is fused, and the starter power wire is only hot when starting.
I just have to find the best way to get the 2 gauge cable from the trunk to the starter, I already have 4 gauge wired (for my stereo) which I can use for the main power wire.
Comments/thoughts?
Here's what I've got so far:
Moroso battery box
Optima dry-cell battery
2-gauge cable
4-gauge cable
thru-panel battery connectors
Ford solenoid/relay
Here's what I need:
Remote Jumper terminals
Circuit Breaker or Fuse - big enough to handle the current draw of Everything (minus the starter)
I know you can buy 300 amp fuses and holder for stereo systems (between $30 to $70 for fuse and holder)
What I plan on doing:
Running two wires off the battery, one goes to a circuit breaker/fuse, which then goes to the main power of the car.
The other wire goes to a Ford solenoid/relay, which then goes to the starter.
The battery will be grounded somewhere in the trunk.
This way, if a short happens, I'm protected, since the main power is fused, and the starter power wire is only hot when starting.
I just have to find the best way to get the 2 gauge cable from the trunk to the starter, I already have 4 gauge wired (for my stereo) which I can use for the main power wire.
Comments/thoughts?
#2
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Hows the car doing? Im also relocating my battery
your post helps.. thanks.. Uhmm.. Ill be going with an optima battery simply because its 100% sealed and I don't have to worry about venting the battery.. as for securing it, Ill be mounting it inside the wheel well, and will fabricate something that surrounds the battery.. Ive been told that I would have to drill holes through the floor, but I don't want to which is why Im putting it in the wheel well.. If I get a flat, Ill make sure to have some of that flat fix crap in a can.. Besides.. Once I do a big brake upgrade, my spare won't fit..
#5
I have one...
Give Byron at TDL Racing a call. He was the one who hooked mine up.
I already had some heavy guage stereo wire running from my battery in the front to a pair of amplifiers in the trunk. Byron used that wire and ran it through a fuse (one of the big ones from a stereo shop that you mentioned...it is located near the battery) and then to a junction box under the rear seat. Two wires ran from the junction box back to the amplifiers in the trunk (these wires also fused.) The battery is grounded in the trunk.
The wire then runs to the engine bay...at that point, I'm not sure how it is connected to the starter.
I chose to go with a regular battery and a metal battery box.
I'm sure that Byron would be able to fill you in on the details. Alternatively, if you want, I can take some pictures of how everything is hooked up and send them to you.
Whatever you do, make sure to tape an extra fuse to the lid of the battery box. If that thing were to blow, you'd have a heck of a time finding one in a pinch. Also, for some reason, this setup cannot handle being jump-started...the main fuse will blow (this happened to Justin).
Scott
I already had some heavy guage stereo wire running from my battery in the front to a pair of amplifiers in the trunk. Byron used that wire and ran it through a fuse (one of the big ones from a stereo shop that you mentioned...it is located near the battery) and then to a junction box under the rear seat. Two wires ran from the junction box back to the amplifiers in the trunk (these wires also fused.) The battery is grounded in the trunk.
The wire then runs to the engine bay...at that point, I'm not sure how it is connected to the starter.
I chose to go with a regular battery and a metal battery box.
I'm sure that Byron would be able to fill you in on the details. Alternatively, if you want, I can take some pictures of how everything is hooked up and send them to you.
Whatever you do, make sure to tape an extra fuse to the lid of the battery box. If that thing were to blow, you'd have a heck of a time finding one in a pinch. Also, for some reason, this setup cannot handle being jump-started...the main fuse will blow (this happened to Justin).
Scott
#6
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So the fuse covers the starter as well?
The ANL fuses are rated up to 300 amps, but a starter can draw almost double that, especially in winter. I wouldn't think that jump-starting would draw more current than normal, but maybe it does. I think if you remove the fuse from the starter, you shouldn't have a problem
IIRC, the main battery wire runs to the starter, and then there is a wire that runs from the starter to the altenator, and then a wire from the altenator to the interior.
So, in my setup, I guess I'd have to run from the starter relay off the battery to the starter, and then have the fused wire connect to the altenator (and remove the link between the starter and altenator)
Thanks for the info,
IIRC, the main battery wire runs to the starter, and then there is a wire that runs from the starter to the altenator, and then a wire from the altenator to the interior.
So, in my setup, I guess I'd have to run from the starter relay off the battery to the starter, and then have the fused wire connect to the altenator (and remove the link between the starter and altenator)
Thanks for the info,
#7
Uploading some pictures now...
<center><img src="http://www.audionline.com/audi12v/mods/engine/images/battreloc/Battery%20003.jpg"></center><p>They didn't come out as good as I had hoped (especially those the ones in the engine bay), but I'm still in my work clothes and didn't want to get dirty!
The circuit breaker that you see in some of the pictures is for the electric fan, not for the battery setup. Also, it looks like the fuse is only 150 amps.
Sorry for the lack of detail in the pictures...let me know if there are any specific shots that you want to see.
Scott<ul><li><a href="http://www.audionline.com/audi12v/mods/engine/battreloc.htm">Pictures (still being uploaded as of 10:07)</a></li></ul>
The circuit breaker that you see in some of the pictures is for the electric fan, not for the battery setup. Also, it looks like the fuse is only 150 amps.
Sorry for the lack of detail in the pictures...let me know if there are any specific shots that you want to see.
Scott<ul><li><a href="http://www.audionline.com/audi12v/mods/engine/battreloc.htm">Pictures (still being uploaded as of 10:07)</a></li></ul>
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#9
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Scott...
I think my fuse blew when my brother in-law tried starting my car with the car in gear and without the clutch engaged.
Too much load = POW!
Too much load = POW!