Will the car flip out if I completely disconnect the N75 valve and run a manual boost controller?
#1
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Will the car flip out if I completely disconnect the N75 valve and run a manual boost controller?
If it does need it, can I just leave the electronic portion plugged in and disconnect it from any boost lines? That way it'll have no impact on anything, correct?
-Mike.
-Mike.
#3
2 ways you can do it.
Remove the N75 valve from the intake and unplug the other 2 vac lines.
2. Leave the N75 valve plugged into the intake tube while removing one vac line and looping the other vac line to the side where you just removed the first vac line.
Either way will work as long as you leave the harness plugged into the N75 valve.
2. Leave the N75 valve plugged into the intake tube while removing one vac line and looping the other vac line to the side where you just removed the first vac line.
Either way will work as long as you leave the harness plugged into the N75 valve.
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Also...
In <A HREF="http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0670/article.html?popularArticle">this</A> they use a "pressure relief valve." Do I really need one? Appearently it adjusts "wastegate creep." Is that what makes the turbo spool faster by faking that you want higher boost at first, or what? I'm just planning to do only the boost controller.
#5
that seems impressive, but is it stable?
I am not sure how a manual boost controller will stnad up to that setup, or which is actually better for the car but they seem to hook up the same way.
#6
You def want the relief valve in there....
With both valves relief and regulator it's like a peak and hold setup. You can set to peak where ever and then the relief opens and the regulator takes over to hold at your set value. With a small turbo just the regulator works fine (works like a adjustable bleed). But with a larger turbo setup the regulator kills spoolup. The valve is stable if you keep it from heating up dramatically. (keep it in the airbox)
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