OHChris

I would reccomend topping off with the same weight as what the dealer puts in when you get your oil changed. But, in actuality, it does not make that much of a difference as the top off oil is a much smaller volume than what is in the engine.

BTW, there is a test that is mandatory on all products on the market that meet an API, ACEA or most OEM specs called H&M. That stands for Homogeneity and Miscibility (ouch, I am not sure if I got the spelling right!) This test ensures that different branded oils can be mixed in various percentages without causing any problematic reactions like additives dropping out! So it does not matter if you mix a Mobil 1 0W-40 with a Syntec 5W-40.

The G Man

The timing belt or chain tensioner is the same as the cam tensioner.

rs4-380

No, the cam tensioner is part of the variable valve timing and is exposed to oil.

Heat00

Thank you all for the input.
I think I will add some 0w40 or 5w40 tomorrow and just wait for 15k for the next oil change. interesting though with no dipstick you really cant see how dirty the oil looks?

OHChris

You really cannot tell the condition of the oil by how dirty it looks. The dispersant additives in the oil suspend dirt and contaminants so it could only take a few hundred miles before the oil starts to become darker. The oil is still functioning the way it is supposed to and could have thousands of more miles of life left in it. The ONLY way to determine the condition of used oil is to run chemical oil analysis on a sample of the oil. While not prohibitively expensive, it is typically not necessary if you use a high quality oil that meets the specifications required for your vehicle and you follow the recommended service intervals.

ELEVENS

^^^ what Chris said ^^^

Heat00

gotcha, thanks!

I will pick some up today and top it off, then wait for 15k to do service.... I guess if manufacturer says thats recommended, and they are the ones covering my warranty, should be ok to wait.

MikeKal

All engines burn the oil that is trapped in the grain of the cylinder wall during combustion. At the same time unburnt fuel, conbustion gases and moisture contaminate the oil by getting past the piston rings. This contamination replaces some of the burnt oil giving the impression that your car doesn't burn oil. Modern synthetic oil easily maintains it lubricity for 10,000 miles however the only way to remove the moisture and contamination is to change the oil. The 10,000 mile between oil changes is driven by marketing and makes sense only if your driving conditions are ideal. Most are not.

81Coupe

I am no auto engineer, I can only attest to what I know by experience.
The car replaced by my new Q5 is a Y2K, made in Alabama, M-Benz ML-320, which follows this 10K oil change schedule. After 13.5 years and 102K miles, I can say that the car has had it's problems, but the engine itself never gave me any. I never have to add any oil, and as far as I can tell, the engine today is as smooth as when it was new. Granted, the Benz's engine might have an edge over the Audi's as it takes double the amount of oil per change (9 qt), I would think after 13 years of Vorsprung, Technik would have taken care of that problem.
I plan th follow Audi's 10K schedule until they have proven themselves not worthy of my trust.

quadi

After reading the entire thread it's interesting that opinions vary. I think that people should follow their instincts. I wanted to provide you some food for thought.

The link below is from the m3forum, another great forum that I follow since I have an m3. It has some pictures that show what the inside of the m3 engines look like when you follow the recommended interval for oil changes as well as when when the oil changes are done half way. Mind you, these engines use Castrol TWS 10w-60 (same as Audi R8 GT) at about $14 per quart.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...90#post4277990

Cheers!