Morgali

Hi, first post here.

I got my first Audi a week ago. It’s used, a 2012 Audi Q5 2.0t. I’ve been absolutely loving it. it’s wonderful, comfortable, clean, fast enough for a non-racer like me, etc. I bought it from the local major Audi dealership, they had taken it in on trade. It has 100,000 miles on it.

Yesterday morning, the notice to add a quart of oil came on. So, I did so. everything was fine, and I had no problems all day. When I had opened the hood, I could not find a dipstick, so I just followed the instructions and added the 1 quart. When I did so, I noticed that it looked dirty (like dirty oil) in the oil cap area so I decided to get an oil change after work. I went to the Valvoline quick oil change place near my house. It used to be an “oilcan Henry’s” and they were excellent back then. Now, it’s full of faces I don’t recognize but they seemed to do an ok job. They complained that there were too many bolts on the skid plate to deal with and next time it was going to be considered a dealer only oil change. I heard the guy in the pit talk about having removed the wrong bolt once and put it back on, but didnt think much of it.

they checked the air filter and it was DISGUSTING. obviously had not been changed at the dealership, and needed to be changed desperately. I had them replace it. They had one helluva time getting the air filter case open and removing a large hose coming off of the air flow sensor, and at one point pulled on the entire thing hard enough to make the assembly pop out of it’s rubber mount. I got it re-mounted down and thought no more about it.

When I left, I noticed that it was running odd, the power was delayed and it accelerated slowly at first and then powered up well. I figured the computer was just figuring out how to handle the sudden highly available air flow as opposed to the choked off air that it was receiving before. I only live half a mile from the oil change place and was home before I could give it much thought or experience it much. I parked and went inside for the night.

This morning, I went outside to go to work, and it would crank but would not fire up. I noticed it had a check engine light as well as EPC illuminated. I have a small bluetooth bosch scan tool so I connected it and it read a generic code P0016. This is either the camshaft or crank shaft position sensor according to the definition given by my scanner, so I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. This did not fix the issue, and I still have both errors and the same symptoms.

I will be replacing the cam shaft position sensor tomorrow morning. If that is unsuccessful, what else should I look at?

WideSuppie

Where are you located? An indie can look at this pretty quickly.

Audi Volkswagen - 2.0L Chain Drive - P0016 Cam/Crank correlation check

Hope this help.

Morgali

I am in Sammamish, WA, just outside Redmond, WA, itself a suburb of Seattle, WA.

is this procedure something i can do without audi specific tools? I am fairly mechanical and have hand re-built engines but that was very long ago (80s and 90s).

if so, where could i find proper instructions on the procedure?

WideSuppie

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=21

Check that post

raj99

I'm about 15 miles from you, perhaps less. I'd be happy to help, but also recommend that you get your new car well serviced and maintained going forward...I could recommend a few places locally if your interested.

BTW, I've got a full VCDS Ross-Tech tool.

Oh and going forward please stay away from those garbage quick oil change places... They are rubbish! I've got a coupon for our local Audi dealer for $60 oil change you can have.... If you don't want to do it yourself.

Morgali

My wife and I decided today not to take our vehicles to those places any longer. I would welcome your assistance with the car. I plan to get it serviced regularly at the dealership, but I will have to pick that up going forward. The dealership showed me paperwork that I assumed they gave me copies of showing work they had supposedly done on the car, and I was looking for it this evening but it was not in the paperwork they gave me with the car. I will have to go to the dealership and get a copy of the service records for it.

Also, if you know of places nearby I would be safe in taking my car, that would be much appreciated.

Having access to your Ross-Tech tool would be amazing. I also need to do a wee bit o programming on my wife’s MB GLC, and I believe that tool will do what I need to do. Would you be willing to let me have a go with it?

raj99

Good places on the eastside include the following:

• Eastside European
• Redmond Werkshop
• Home - Autobahn Autowerkz
• Call Ken @ 425.236.0295 - excellent mechanic who is very honest and knows his way around our vehicles

The VCDS is only good for VAG (i.e. VW, Audi, etc...) vehicles, you MB requires a Star tek tool.

I'd be willing to perform the diagnosis and such for you, but since I don't know you from adam, I wouldn't be comfortable loaning you a tool which costs ~$400...which I'm sure you understand.

Morgali

I fully understand and wouldn’t ask to borrow it. I simply mean would you be willing to assist me diagnosing my problem definitively? And, of course you are right, I had known about star tool, but I have read that your system can also work. I might have read some mis-information on that point however.

raj99

I can help, but you do get what you pay for As for your original issue, IMHO it sounds like when they changed your air filter...which was a mistake since I'm certain they didn't use OEM parts, but you mentioned they yanked the entire assembly and dislodged things. Based upon the CEL, EPC, and your vehicle running rough my hunch says that their is an air gap of some kind behind the MAF. I'd recommend you check the entire intake again and ensure everything is locked into place properly and there are no gaps in the plastic pieces, which is allowing air into your intake.

Check out this video and make sure everything is installed properly:

Bob Petruska

I wish you the best and hopefully that it points to something very simple.

BUT! Your 2012 Q5, 2.0T is prone to timing chain tensioner failure. You have the classic symptoms for it, rough running before shutdown, then you can't start the car. The chain jumps on the sprocket, the valves then hit the pistons, bends the valves, could damge pistons and head, dealer fix runs around $7K.

Again it could be something very simple, but you have 100K on the Q5 and consider it walking wounded until that timing chain tensioner is replaced. This is a known problem part and on its 4th revision. At 100K your chain is most likely also stretched and has worn chain guides
There is a dip stick tube with no dip stick, it has a plug in the top, if that isn't there the engine will run rough. Any other air leak (oil filler cap, removed vac hose, etc. will have a rough running engine).
Audi dealers normally suck the oil out through the dip stick tube, no need to remove the belly pan, the oil filter is on the top of the engine.

A few months ago my neighbor junked his A4 for the tensioner problem, wasn't worth the fix.