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So CAEB engine. Knock sensor is under the coolant pump on the left side of the block. You can see it here at this instant in the video: youtu.be/0KH51fik4fY?t=236 The three plugs under the rear of the intake manifold, the green one is to the knock sensor. You see the wire loom from it going across and then behind the coolant pump. Could be the bolt for it is loose? The knock sensor must be correctly torqued to the block for it to function correctly. Other option is maybe it's shorted to B+ (battery voltage)? At the three pin, the yellow and green wires are the knock sensor wires; the black wire is a "shield" ground wire. P0328 means the ECM is seeing more than 18V from the knock sensor when over 2k rpm, or it's seeing B+ on one of the lines. Workshop manual says it has to be torqued to 20 Nm. Apparently, you should read an open circuit between the two sensor pins (1 and 2, yellow and green). If you read some resistance value (or 0 resistance, ie short), the sensor is toast.
So CAEB engine. Knock sensor is under the coolant pump on the left side of the block. You can see it here at this instant in the video: youtu.be/0KH51fik4fY?t=236 The three plugs under the rear of the intake manifold, the green one is to the knock sensor. You see the wire loom from it going across and then behind the coolant pump. Could be the bolt for it is loose? The knock sensor must be correctly torqued to the block for it to function correctly. Other option is maybe it's shorted to B+ (battery voltage)? At the three pin, the yellow and green wires are the knock sensor wires; the black wire is a "shield" ground wire. P0328 means the ECM is seeing more than 18V from the knock sensor when over 2k rpm, or it's seeing B+ on one of the lines. Workshop manual says it has to be torqued to 20 Nm. Apparently, you should read an open circuit between the two sensor pins (1 and 2, yellow and green). If you read some resistance value (or 0 resistance, ie short), the sensor is toast.
Thank you
Is the sensor with the green the knock sensor 1?
Also, it appears the workshop manual implies you can access it by just removing the thermostat on the coolant pump, no need to mess with the entire coolant pump. So that's a big plus for you.
But if you're going to start playing with your engine at this level, you really should have the actual Audi produced workshop manuals for it. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, VIN search, download all the PDFs for your VIN. This will all be in a doc referencing "1_8_2_0_ltr__4-valve_generation_II", but you want all the manuals. You never know when it'll say "remove piece X, as documented in one of the other manuals", etc. In the document list, hit the download square, not the view square. If it opens locally, then just save it.
Also, it appears the workshop manual implies you can access it by just removing the thermostat on the coolant pump, no need to mess with the entire coolant pump. So that's a big plus for you.
But if you're going to start playing with your engine at this level, you really should have the actual Audi produced workshop manuals for it. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, VIN search, download all the PDFs for your VIN. This will all be in a doc referencing "1_8_2_0_ltr__4-valve_generation_II", but you want all the manuals. You never know when it'll say "remove piece X, as documented in one of the other manuals", etc. In the document list, hit the download square, not the view square. If it opens locally, then just save it.
That's great thanks, I'll get the manual going
I do have to take off the intake manifold correct?
04-24-2024, 11:18 PM
