THE.KWC

Further to this. I always remote start my car for at least 20 min prior to driving to ensure the motor is warm and it still happens but today it wasn't as "stuck" as it normally is. It is definitely worse if I try and reverse then it is if I pull forward. After driving around for about 2 hours I parked to drop off a house window I broke. When I parked, I got a warning message stating the vehicle was not in park even though it was. I checked the shifter and it was in fact in park. I started the car back up, put the car in drive ,then back in park. Same issue. I again put the vehicle in drive but this time drove a head 3 feet and put the vehicle in park. This time there was no message.

Im wondering if my transmission isn't fully engaging/disengaging or if there is a problem with the shifter linkage sticking in the cold weather. Any other ideas?

iconoclast

have you put a vagcom on the car and scanned for codes?

aqaqaq123

The "not in park" issue may very well be a shifter problem. I have it on my one-year-old tdi. No codes or anything. Put it in park, depress the button on the shifter and the message should show up on the dashboard. It may be the button not retracting fully in colder weather.

Edd W

My guess is that all these issues are related to the shift mech. rather than the transmission.

I suspect there must be switches in the mech to detect it's been shifted out of park and until that happens there are valves in the box that lower fluid pressures thus causing no drive. There are unlikely to be any codes because it is not even detecting that the shifter has moved into drive so it doesn't recognise anything's wrong.

I would check the switches in the shift mechanism as a start.

iconoclast

neutral safety switch?

iconoclast

what happened with this?

smith2010Q7

It sounds like you have no pressure solenoids working in 1st, rev.
N89 solenoid is a on/off solenoid and is on and open, to allow a line pressure increase when the torque converter clutch is applied. When both N88 and N89 solenoids are energized at the same time, the B2 brake clutch is applied in tiptronic 1st gear. If the N89 solenoid fails in the off position, there will be no pressure increase in TCC and no engine braking in Tiptronic 1st gear.
Both N88 and N89 are the same and both operate in exactly the same manner base on commands from the TCM. These two work in conjunction with the Pulse Width Modulated PWM, by the chart N93 is the major solenoids. (which it is your line pressure.)
When I talk about on/off it is solenoid off is blocked pressure. and on is solenoid feed is open.
By the chart of the solenoids Park, neut, rev, 1st and 2nd all run into the same solenoids.

Chart
Park N92/OFF N282/OFF N90/ON N283/ON N93/PWM
NEUT N92/ON N282/ON N90/ON N283/ON N93/PWM
REV N92/ON N282/ON N90/OFF N283/ON N93/PWM K3/ON B2/ON
1ST N89/T N88/T N92/OFF/N282/ON
N90/ON/ N283/ON/ N93/PWM/ K1/ON/ F1/ON
2ND N92/OFF N282/ON N90/ON N283/OFF N93/PWM N91/PWM K1/ON B1/ON

NOW your transmission not in park is also cause transmission range switch (plus pressure on you solenoids that need to on/ or off. Which it is located on the right hand side, if replace have to use a special tool from Audi/VW. This check is by a DVOM under 4 and 2 pins.

Try to going into tiptronic shifting which it will be in the SPORT (S) this will tell the TCM into a different mode (auto) for shifting. Which also you control the + and - transaxle selector. [*]automatic downshifts when the RPM falls below the program min RPM[*]kickdown shifting available[*]Acceleration from standing start in second gear by selecting 2nd before accelerating[*]upshift or downshift prevention[/LIST][*]Automatic upshifts when the max RPM is reach[/LIST][LIST][LIST]

Hope you can free up some solenoids by doing this with low to high on the RPM. If it works now we know it has some bad solenoids that have frozen doing time. Recommend a good transmission tech cause he will have to do some volts meter checks. Once you drop the pan why do the job twice if just fluid does not work. Once you check out everything fix what is bad the new trans fluid and filter is required for the 09D plus new pan seal. I also recommend to change out your trans mod fluid it take 1L of the same fluid just drain and refill.

Good Luck

igotag

If the car is not recognizing that it is in park however it is ACTUALLY in the park position you need to replace part no. 4F0-971-697 in the shifter mechanism. There is a service bulletin on it somewhere however I can't seem to find it. If you search around you can find it for less than 20 bucks. It is the F305 module in the below pictures.

THE.KWC

******** HUGE UPDATE PROBLEM SOLVED ********


Sorry for the delay. This problem has been solved and lucky for me it didn't end badly.

Long story short, as previously stated my Q7 would feel like it would be stuck or frozen in place on a super cold day if left out side during the winter. This was never an issue above freezing temperatures. You guys suggested brakes and transmission issues. It ended up being the Rear diff.

During the summer I haul a 21 foot ski boat which requires me to dip the back end of the Audi into the lake to get the boat off the trailer. No problem right? Wrong! The geniuses at Audi do not make a sealed diff. There is a small vent at the top of the diff that is also used to fill it with fluid. This vent also allowed lake water to slowly make its way into my rear diff each time I put the boat into the lake or took it out over the course of 2 years. I estimate about 25 times (in and out)

So as you can imagine water and diff fluid don't mix so the water began to push the oil out of the vent at the top of the diff. During the winter the water would freeze inside the diff causing the vehicle to freeze in place then suddenly lurch when I gave it enough gas which would break the ice apart holding the diff gears in place. There were no other issues or strange sounds.

Fast forward to last summer and I heard a sudden noticeable whining coming from the back end while doing 120 km/hr down the highway. As I begin the slow down to pull over, I was doing approx 100km/hr when both rear tires completely lock up after the inside of the diff disintegrated. The Q7 almost flipped as I swerved wildly across both lanes leaving a 200 foot skid. Lucky for me I was alone and not towing the boat or I would have been toast.


Had it towed to a VW dealer where I get a family rate at and was quoted $5800.00. I was told it was a huge job that required the rear subframe being removed. The diff alone was $3900.00. Apparently that was a huge deal as it was normally $7200.00 to do the job.


Had it towed home instead to try and fix. I sourced a used diff from across the country with only 42000km and got all the fluids, bolts and other small parts through a buddy. Total cost $1000.00. Took me 6 hours to do. The hardest/ most time consuming part was getting the bulky exhaust out because I was using jack stands and had to keep repositioning them to manoeuvre the exhaust out from under the car. If you had a lift it is a three hour job and the sub frame does not have to come out. Use caution when removing the main drive shaft as there are ball bearings inside the ends and they are a huge pain to get back in ( learned this the hard way on a buddies A4). I did open the diff and it was completely destroyed there was shrapnel everywhere and no oil inside.

After all of this, the thing that pissed me off the most was I was 4 god damn days away from my service appointment to have my front and rear diff flushed. 4 days!!!

I just wanted to share this with anyone who tows a boat. Please get your diff serviced regularly. It's easy enough to do your self with a small hand pump, some plastic tubing and a hours time. The dealer will try to rip you off claiming it's a machine that has to pump out the oil bla bla bla.

Sorry for no pictures phone got replaced.

RoMan709