Built4Sin

So the floor fits over it, without being lifted? Awesome!

Are you going to try to tap the rear fuse panel, like dreadlocks suggested?

Looks like I’ll be doing the same thing in December 🥰

Dudeness30

It sits at about the same height, so yes the tray goes back in. I am looking at the possibility of tying into the fuse box.

Dudeness30

I could use the rear fuse panel, but I think I will distribute the load between the two. I am guessing that each row goes to a larger fuse under the drivers seat. So if I put a 20a fuse from each one and connect them together I will have a 40 amp circuit and the load will be divided between the two. The sub states a max draw of 30a, so a 40a feed should be great. See pics.

Dudeness30

I installed the primary wires. Soldered 2 fuse holders to 8 gauge wire. See pics. There was a nice ground lug on the body already that I used.

Dudeness30

I just finished the installation, I used a JL audio line out converter, I will be posting a video that I will put up a link to later. Check out the pics.

Titua1915

Question, why does everyone use rca low level instead of the high level? I want to use high level. Whats the pros and cons? Whats the difference

Dudeness30

I used the factory amp output which is probably too high for the JBL amp, regular speaker outputs would be fine though.
Heres the video:

Titua1915

do i need a high to low signal converter? cant i just tap into the factory sub wires which are high level to the high level signal from the new jbl and thats it?

Dudeness30

You could try it, but it might be too high of a output. And what about the remote turn on wire for the JBL sub? The JL Audio LOC is made to integrate after market parts with the factory parts. The LOC was $80 and I think it was worth it.

Titua1915

so it doesnt turn on with the high level speaker wires going into the jbl? it needs the rca to audio loc for it to turn on and off with sensing?