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Takes long time to start hot or cold - 3.0 TDI

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Old 11-21-2013, 05:19 AM
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Good point Zak20vt.

You could also try letting the glow plugs heat up before cranking it over at all. If you have key ignition, just turn the key and wait a few seconds before starting. If you have keyless, just press the button without your foot on the brake pedal. then press the brake pedal and then the start button once again. The delay will allow the glow plugs to fully heat up.

The other test is fuel pressure - could but HPFP or filter and residual pressure test after leaving it over night.
Old 11-21-2013, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by reljay

They replaced the fuel filter and it go slightly better. I still have the problem now.
You might be getting air leaking into the system after the vehicle sits overnight making a start difficult. This is a common problem on VW TDIs and it's often traced back to the rubber o-ring seals at the fuel filter.
Old 11-25-2013, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by zak20vt
Reljay,

Have you had your injectors tested for leaks?

The Audi dealer changed both fuel pumps and various other parts and the problem was the same. I then asked them to check the fuel injectors again (they told me these had already been tested but I did not believe them) and they found 2 with internal leaks.

The 2 injectors were replaced and the problem resolved.
Thanks Zak. I will do that. I also noticed it happens more when i parked on a slope or when i park on the kerb. could that be related or me over-thinking it? could the angle of the car have any bearing on fuel injection. Especially if they are leaking like you said. Also how many injectors does the car have and whats the typical cost of replacing each one. Thanks
Old 11-25-2013, 04:44 AM
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Also could anyone please tell me a good Audi garage in the Manchester (UK) area. Thanks
Old 11-25-2013, 05:36 AM
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I don't think it could have any effect on the fuel system itself unless the problem is related to an issue with the lift pump. There are two pumps - one lifts the fuel from the tank(s) and is supposed to supply a good, air-free steady supply to the HPFP - High pressure fuel pump - this then raises the pressure to about 1500bar - 23,000 PSI (about 800 x the air pressure in a tyre!).

It is feasible that a problem with the lift pump could be effected by parking on an angle but I doubt it really.

Most likely things are blocked filter, glow-plug fault (would not happen when it is warm), lift pump fault, injector fault.

If you car is a V6 then it has 6 or if it is the V8 then it has 8 - this applies to glow-plugs and injectors.

The purpose of the glow-plugs is to heat the compressed air in the cylinder so that when the fuel is injected there is enough heat for it to ignite - on very cold mornings, the glow-plugs are essential because it will really struggle to start without any additional heat in the cylinder.

One further thought, how does the car run normally - does it seem powerful enough and run well? It could also have an air leak or problem with the MAF. The MAF measures the amount of air being drawn in so the ECU can inject the correct amount of fuel.
Old 11-26-2013, 01:59 AM
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Thanks Edd.

The car seems to run fine.

Talking about the glow plugs, i have recently noticed that when i stop the car after driving for a while, i stop the car and try to start it again immediately and it wont start, it wont even crank. I have to leave it for a minute or 2, then try again.

I dont think thats a problem with the glow plugs as the their shold be enough heat in the system already.
Old 11-26-2013, 03:43 AM
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Yes, the glow-plugs only really do anything from complete cold start, if the engine has any residual heat they do are not activated for any time at all.

Is your keyless or standard?

There is some monitoring for the start process and it is beginning to sound like a cam or crank position sensor to me - if it fails to crank at all - it could also be simply an ignition switch fault if it not keyless.
Old 11-26-2013, 04:08 AM
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Its the key less one. it also has start stop.

Wen i use the start stop, it takes even longer and more cranking to start.

I am really worried, as i have not had the car long.

I have dropped it at the garage this morning. Waiting for the diagnosis now.

I am not very confident, judging by peoples experiences here.

It seems nearly everyone was given the wrong info by garages.
Old 11-26-2013, 05:43 AM
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If it is keyless then it is not the ignition switch but could be a cam or crank position sensor. It uses one of these, although I don't know which, to recognise that the engine has started and to disengage the starter.

If this is failing it may well also trigger the HPFP and engine ECU to start the injection process.

If the engine runs well when it has started that suggests fuel pressure is OK and that mechanically the engine is OK.

Has it been chipped or is it standard?

If it is chipped I would start by getting it reverted back to standard.
Old 11-30-2013, 04:02 PM
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Hi guys

Ok, so the garage reckon its the EGR.

Now i am not entirely sure how true this is. He said the coolant is leaking into the system, and the EGR needs to be checked (4hr job)

How can this affect starting?

Also the latest problem i am having is re starting the car immediately after stopping.

It never restarts at the first attempt. It doesn't even crank until maybe the third attempt.

Does this imply anything?

The garage said they checked the battery and the starter motor and both are fine.


I am really confused now.


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