Car care products
#21
Ive found there are very few bad products on the market. Every one of them has good things and some have bad things but the end result is usually always the same. Technique is far more important. If you just want wax buy whatever is on sale. Wont make much of a difference. If you want to step it up clay bar the car. Then do wax. Paint correction is where real technique is needed. I personally use a DA polisher from Harbor Freight and it works very well. More bulky than more expensive ones but it is worth the money. Their pads arent great but work okay. My q7 arrives tomorrow and plan a full detail and will probably need quite a bit of paint correction. Chemical guys makes good stuff but I hate their marketing with stupid buzz words. I only buy it when on sale from Amazon.
#22
AudiWorld Super User
go get a flex forced rotation polisher. or better yet a rupes.
menzerna makes some of the best compounds and polishes.
wolfgang fuzion is one of the best waxes i have ever used.
now i take the cars to a boston based place that applies opti-coat pro + (craft detailing in Dedham, MA). makes all the world of difference.
either way, a good wash, decontamination (iron x), and clay (cheat and use a mitt or pad instead of clay) and then apply wax and it goes a long way...
most cars are destroyed while drying and washing. a two bucket method and proper soap, mitts, etc. will make the finish and hard work polishing last much longer.
if you are really into it, go to a forum like autogeek and read mike phillips and the others' posts. some of these guys are obsessed.
menzerna makes some of the best compounds and polishes.
wolfgang fuzion is one of the best waxes i have ever used.
now i take the cars to a boston based place that applies opti-coat pro + (craft detailing in Dedham, MA). makes all the world of difference.
either way, a good wash, decontamination (iron x), and clay (cheat and use a mitt or pad instead of clay) and then apply wax and it goes a long way...
most cars are destroyed while drying and washing. a two bucket method and proper soap, mitts, etc. will make the finish and hard work polishing last much longer.
if you are really into it, go to a forum like autogeek and read mike phillips and the others' posts. some of these guys are obsessed.
#23
AudiWorld Super User
p.s. - chemical guys makes a great quick detailer, leather cleaner, and silk shine dressing.
some of their sealants, waxes, and polishes are ok. and if you haven't bought into the microfiber compounding pads, give them a try. they work like wool compounding pads on a rotary but don't leave horrendous holograms.
some of their sealants, waxes, and polishes are ok. and if you haven't bought into the microfiber compounding pads, give them a try. they work like wool compounding pads on a rotary but don't leave horrendous holograms.
#24
Ultimate Keyboard Warrior
I use a full size Porter-Cable random orbit buffer to apply and remove products on my vehicles. I also have a small Griot's buffer for use on glass and small areas.
#25
AudiWorld Super User
porter cable is good, that is what i started out with...
a flex will correct faster.... since it is forced rotation... but can have trouble finishing down on super soft paint (ie. tesla, subaru, porsche).
if i were to do it again i would go with a rupes bigfoot....
a flex will correct faster.... since it is forced rotation... but can have trouble finishing down on super soft paint (ie. tesla, subaru, porsche).
if i were to do it again i would go with a rupes bigfoot....
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