Dashcam Install via mirrortap - success!
08-01-2016, 07:38 PM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Dashcam Install via mirrortap - success!
This is part 1 of 2. Part 1 will be just the front camera install hardwired via mirror tap. Part 2 will be the rear camera install that I will post later.
Picked up the new Blackvue DR650S 2CH and since I have no desire to have the camera run in parked mode, I decided to do hardwire via a mirror tap. The fact that the side fuse panel in the Q7 doesn't have any accessory power-switched fuse locations to tap from in order to run a battery discharge protection module made this decision easier. Those that want to run a power magic pro or multi-safer to run their dashcams in parked mode will probably need to access the fuse panel under the dead pedal (left hand drive models).
Since neither Blackvue nor Blendmount make a hardwire kit for Blackvue dash cams, I decided to make my own. Nice thing about the Blackvue dashcams is that they run off direct 12V DC power, making hardwiring a snap. Disclaimer: I'm not a professional installer, nor do I make any claims that whatever wiring job I show on this post is proper or safe for your car or dash cam.
Items needed:
1) Blackvue DR650S (or any other dash cam that have 12V power input for that matter; most south korean models are this way)
2) Nylon trim removal tools (~$10 from amazon)
3) any MirrorTap cable with an in-line fuse and .080 size taps (any smaller and it might be too loose on the Audi harness). You can buy one from Blendmount or you can save some $ like I did by buying the "Mirrortap 1000 series made for C6 Vettes" that's readily available on amazon for $20-25. You can also make one yourself if you can source .080 taps somewhere, but then you'd still have to wire in a fuse. Here's a link to the one I bought: https://amzn.com/B006MZFH28
4) wire stripper tool
5) soldering iron, solder, or just electrical tape will probably do if you want to skip the solder. Optional: heat-shrinkable cable sleeve and heat gun for a cleaner job.
------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE 9/5/16:
If you'd rather not make a cable and do not need a longer cable for a Blackvue unit mounting further away from the rearview mirror base, then ignore the list above and just get a Blackvue dashcam and a RadarMount cable for Cobra radar detectors as mentioned by Peter Williams on post #36 of this thread. (Thanks Peter!). The RadarMount cable has the proper size taps, an in-line fuse, and the proper barrel connector plug to insert into Blackvue dashcams' power input. No stripping or splicing needed, assuming your chosen mounting location doesn't require a longer cable run. Link to product is here:
https://amzn.com/B00RA38Y8U
One thing to note though is that this RadarMount cable is on the short side. I didn't measure exactly how long, but while it was the perfect length for where I mounted it on the RS7, it would definitely be too short if you mounted it further away like where I did in the Q7 and still have it exit the mirror trim piece at the base of where it articulates. If you mount the blackvue closer to the top edge of the Q7's windshield slightly above the rearview mirror, then it's definitely too short for that. So if you need more flexibility in dashcam placement being further away from the base of the rearview mirror, then making your own cable (steps 1-3) is still the way to go. Otherwise, skip steps 1-3 below and go straight to step 4 if you buy the RadarMount cable.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1: determine the approximate length from the base of your rearview mirror you want to install the dash cam and snip off the terminations of both the mirror tap cable and the blackvue/dash cam power cable leaving yourself with enough cable length to work with.
and there's this warning label on the blackvue power cable... yeah I cut it. Living on the edge!
Step 2: strip the ends. The proper tool makes this easy.
Step 3: Put them together. Red to red, black to black. Put 'em together however you see fit. I couldn't find my soldering iron so I just twisted the strands together, wrapped with electrical tape, and heat-shrunk a cable sleeve over the whole thing. Good enough. The joint won't be under any stress once tucked in the trim panel.
Step 4: Remove the trim panels. There are three, but you only need to remove two; the largest and the middle piece. They come off easy by simply prying from the aft of panel with a trim removal tool. The middle piece you'll need to be careful with since the little tabs that hold them to the third piece look fragile. Just grab hold and gently wiggle back and forth and it pulls right out.
Step 5: Locate the harness to the mirror. It's the larger one that's readily accessible to you once the trim pieces come out. It actually pivots down a bit so you don't even have to detach it in order to plug in the taps. On this harness the accessory power is the YELLOW wire and ground is the BROWN wire.
Step 6: Plug in the taps. Red goes into where yellow wire is, black goes into where the brown wire is. Because the bases of the taps are kinda thick, I found that on my harness it fit best when I slotted in the red tap from front of where the yellow wire goes in and the black tap behind of where the yellow wire goes in. Perfect fit. Should slot right in with minimal resistance. Connect your dashcam and turn on accessory power to make sure everything works before snapping the trim pieces back in.
Step 7: Carefully replace the middle trim piece but route your homemade cable to exit at the base of the this trim piece as shown below...
Whatever excess cable slack you have can be looped and tucked away under the bigger trim piece (there's plenty of room here)
Step 8: Snap the largest trim piece back on. On this pic you can see a driver's seat perspective of how I located the dash cam behind the rearview mirror so that it doesn't take up any visibility from the driver.
Passenger's seat view..
Done!
Step 9: profit.
Here's a test video driving around the block in my 'hood... still need to to tweak the brightness/contrast settings on the cam, but overall pretty happy with the video quality.
Part 2 coming soon... I plan on installing the rear camera this coming weekend.
Picked up the new Blackvue DR650S 2CH and since I have no desire to have the camera run in parked mode, I decided to do hardwire via a mirror tap. The fact that the side fuse panel in the Q7 doesn't have any accessory power-switched fuse locations to tap from in order to run a battery discharge protection module made this decision easier. Those that want to run a power magic pro or multi-safer to run their dashcams in parked mode will probably need to access the fuse panel under the dead pedal (left hand drive models).
Since neither Blackvue nor Blendmount make a hardwire kit for Blackvue dash cams, I decided to make my own. Nice thing about the Blackvue dashcams is that they run off direct 12V DC power, making hardwiring a snap. Disclaimer: I'm not a professional installer, nor do I make any claims that whatever wiring job I show on this post is proper or safe for your car or dash cam.
Items needed:
1) Blackvue DR650S (or any other dash cam that have 12V power input for that matter; most south korean models are this way)
2) Nylon trim removal tools (~$10 from amazon)
3) any MirrorTap cable with an in-line fuse and .080 size taps (any smaller and it might be too loose on the Audi harness). You can buy one from Blendmount or you can save some $ like I did by buying the "Mirrortap 1000 series made for C6 Vettes" that's readily available on amazon for $20-25. You can also make one yourself if you can source .080 taps somewhere, but then you'd still have to wire in a fuse. Here's a link to the one I bought: https://amzn.com/B006MZFH28
4) wire stripper tool
5) soldering iron, solder, or just electrical tape will probably do if you want to skip the solder. Optional: heat-shrinkable cable sleeve and heat gun for a cleaner job.
------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE 9/5/16:
If you'd rather not make a cable and do not need a longer cable for a Blackvue unit mounting further away from the rearview mirror base, then ignore the list above and just get a Blackvue dashcam and a RadarMount cable for Cobra radar detectors as mentioned by Peter Williams on post #36 of this thread. (Thanks Peter!). The RadarMount cable has the proper size taps, an in-line fuse, and the proper barrel connector plug to insert into Blackvue dashcams' power input. No stripping or splicing needed, assuming your chosen mounting location doesn't require a longer cable run. Link to product is here:
https://amzn.com/B00RA38Y8U
One thing to note though is that this RadarMount cable is on the short side. I didn't measure exactly how long, but while it was the perfect length for where I mounted it on the RS7, it would definitely be too short if you mounted it further away like where I did in the Q7 and still have it exit the mirror trim piece at the base of where it articulates. If you mount the blackvue closer to the top edge of the Q7's windshield slightly above the rearview mirror, then it's definitely too short for that. So if you need more flexibility in dashcam placement being further away from the base of the rearview mirror, then making your own cable (steps 1-3) is still the way to go. Otherwise, skip steps 1-3 below and go straight to step 4 if you buy the RadarMount cable.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1: determine the approximate length from the base of your rearview mirror you want to install the dash cam and snip off the terminations of both the mirror tap cable and the blackvue/dash cam power cable leaving yourself with enough cable length to work with.
and there's this warning label on the blackvue power cable... yeah I cut it. Living on the edge!
Step 2: strip the ends. The proper tool makes this easy.
Step 3: Put them together. Red to red, black to black. Put 'em together however you see fit. I couldn't find my soldering iron so I just twisted the strands together, wrapped with electrical tape, and heat-shrunk a cable sleeve over the whole thing. Good enough. The joint won't be under any stress once tucked in the trim panel.
Step 4: Remove the trim panels. There are three, but you only need to remove two; the largest and the middle piece. They come off easy by simply prying from the aft of panel with a trim removal tool. The middle piece you'll need to be careful with since the little tabs that hold them to the third piece look fragile. Just grab hold and gently wiggle back and forth and it pulls right out.
Step 5: Locate the harness to the mirror. It's the larger one that's readily accessible to you once the trim pieces come out. It actually pivots down a bit so you don't even have to detach it in order to plug in the taps. On this harness the accessory power is the YELLOW wire and ground is the BROWN wire.
Step 6: Plug in the taps. Red goes into where yellow wire is, black goes into where the brown wire is. Because the bases of the taps are kinda thick, I found that on my harness it fit best when I slotted in the red tap from front of where the yellow wire goes in and the black tap behind of where the yellow wire goes in. Perfect fit. Should slot right in with minimal resistance. Connect your dashcam and turn on accessory power to make sure everything works before snapping the trim pieces back in.
Step 7: Carefully replace the middle trim piece but route your homemade cable to exit at the base of the this trim piece as shown below...
Whatever excess cable slack you have can be looped and tucked away under the bigger trim piece (there's plenty of room here)
Step 8: Snap the largest trim piece back on. On this pic you can see a driver's seat perspective of how I located the dash cam behind the rearview mirror so that it doesn't take up any visibility from the driver.
Passenger's seat view..
Done!
Step 9: profit.
Here's a test video driving around the block in my 'hood... still need to to tweak the brightness/contrast settings on the cam, but overall pretty happy with the video quality.
Part 2 coming soon... I plan on installing the rear camera this coming weekend.
Last edited by larryV; 09-05-2016 at 03:07 PM.
08-02-2016, 07:06 AM
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
Here's a test video driving around the block in my 'hood... still need to to tweak the brightness/contrast settings on the cam, but overall pretty happy with the video quality.
08-02-2016, 10:16 AM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
In order to have parking mode operation, you will need a power magic pro, a multi-safer, or similar low-voltage cut-off device to protect your car battery from too much discharging. This usually involved hardwiring to ACC (switched power), BAT (unswitched constant power), and ground. The device then allows operation of the dashcam while the car is parked with ignition off and locked, but sets either a time limit or low-voltage cut-off before shutting down.
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08-02-2016, 10:18 AM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
08-03-2016, 01:02 PM
#10
AudiWorld Member
Hi Larry! So for your rear camera - are you using another 1-Channel camera like the front one? or are you using the "lesser" frames one that comes with the 2-channel which you'll need to route that cable to the front unit?