stevenmurray

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37382/balljointcareful.jpg"></center><p>
I've almost completed removing the strut from the urq. Now I have to disconnect the strut from the control arm at the balljoint.
How rough can I get with that ball joint? Can I use a fork - as show in the photo? The rubber on the balljoint looks frail. Wedge a large screw driver in there?
steve

Rich L.

I'd keep that pickle fork out of there, it'd be easy to tear that boot with it. I pull ball joints with a long steel bar. I reach from behind the joint, over the control arm and bracing it against the subframe to chassis mountint point. If it won't come out with just pressure, I strike the bar with a hammer up by the control arm with pressure on it. Takes a couple people and is much easier on a lift.

Good luck,
Rich

ralleyquattro

I also see that you have the wrong control arm. The Ur-q one should have a strenthening plate that covers the ball joint from the bottom! THis looks like a regular AUdi Coupe/4000/ VW Fox control arm. WIll work fine, just not the correct part... THis may also explain why your strut is bent.. looks like original control arm may have been bent.

YOu can do as Rich explained, or slightly longer way of doing it, unbolt the sway bar from either control arm, this way there is no press holding the arm in place and much easier to push the ball joint out.

On some cars, the driveshaft binds and it's impossible to remove the ball joint without loosening the two bolts holding it. SInce you have the wrong control arm, this might be the easiest way of getting the strut out.. With new strut you are going to be doing aligment anyway..

stevenmurray

I used the Rich method with a 5 foot bar I use for digging out tree stumps. I stood on it. No good.

The stab bar is disconnected and hanging. The NLA stab bar bushing is half gone.

FOr the ball joing I was only able to loosen one of 2. There is a bump in the control arm top that keeps my 17 mm. wrench from seating all the way. I guess this bump is supposed to keep the bolt head from turning. Time for an extra long 6pt.

The strut top seems to need a 7mm hex. I only have 6 and 8.

So I'll keep at it. Thanks.

Mayhem72

spray some weasel **** (PB Blaster) in there &amp; let it soke in. Then get a long pry bar or three pound hammer if the pry bar doesn't work.

Kidquattro

fork + Balljoint = bad

beermonster

this looks like a pinch bolt setup to me. At the top of the joint just below the CV joint get it all as clean as you can, and use plenty of penetrating oil. Get a large screwdriver, and use it to slighty open up the slot in the wheel bearing housing, and then the balljoint should withdraw downwards. Don't use that fork on the balljoint, you'll cut the boot

urq20vt

The fork WILL destroy the joint boot. Then you either have to find a new bolt or ball joint.

The easiest way that I have done it is to remove the sway bar end and A arm bolts, then turned the A arm sideways, supported the subframe side with a wood block, and then whacked the ball joint right next to the strut with a dead blow hammer. This will pull the ball joint straight out of the strut with minimal damage and effort.

Katman

I've had success with using a really long pry bar (or crowbar).

But not by prying with it!

I put the 'pointed' end of the crowbar on the A arm, right beside the ball joint. The other end of the crowbar (Curved end) is up by the top of the fender. That way, you can hammer on the curved end of the crowbar, with the force being directed almost straight down, in the direction the ball joint has to go to come out.

A very good idea to disconnect the sway bar on the side you are working on. Otherwise, almost impossible to get the ball joint out..

When you go to install the ball joint, make sure that the bolt you use WILL snag the groove in the ball joint. I've had different bolts that fit in the hole correctly, but have different 'shank' diameters.

Too small a 'shank' diameter and the ball joint *can* slip by a loosened bolt.. (How do I know? :-)

stevenmurray

If I get the strut out with the ball joint - the CV joint won't be in the way so it looks like I'll be able to put a large brass drift right on the ball joint shaft and hammer it out.