KRCRS4

Does anyone have any advice? I took my RS4 in for service. The pad were so worn that the sensor and wire had fallen out. Also the disc rotors are "slightly" warped! 6 / 20 min sessions and 45 min. cool-down after each session. My C4S never had any issues. Why are these brakes doing this? I would think that an "RS" product would be more durable, yes? Should I use different pads and /or rotors? Thanks.

larryV

considering you relatively short sessions, did the cool-downs, etc, etc.

I have tracked my RS4 often since last June, been to about 6 DE's and 10 other random track days, and even on my second set of rotors which have already eaten through several sets of pads including 2 sets of Pagid RS14 race pads, the stock rotors have not warped and actually still look decent. I get the usual "brake judder" after the event when the race pads go from adhesive phase to abrasive phase and start to remove the pad deposits from the rotor surface over time. But this was always temporary and would disappear after about a week of normal street driving. If you use race pads for the track and oem pads for the street, the key thing is to leave the race pads on for about a week to allow it to remove the the pad deposits it left at the track during the cooler abrasive phase. If not done, replacement of the oem pads while the race pad deposits are still on will not allow proper removal of the layer and result in extended brake judder.

btw, if you're going to track your RS4 more, just have the brake sensors bypassed for good and to hell with them. I have found that they will pop out almost immediately with excessive heat not just from heavy track use but even from occasional aggresive street braking. Bypassing also facilitates easier swapping between street and race pads, the latter of which I highly recommend. Swapping the front pads is incredibly easy that even a caveman could do it. Seriously. Even if you're not that handy, if you're handy enough to unbolt the wheels from your car, you're handy enough to swap the pads yourself. Jacking it up and removing the wheels is actually the hard part and what takes the most time.

KRCRS4

So the dealer is just not in the know??

KRCRS4

They say disc are "blue" and that they are "shot"

larryV

usually, most car dealers will swap the rotors on high performance cars when the original pads are worn. That seems to be the standard. When I burned through my first set of brake pads on my E60 M5 at a track event, the dealer not only swapped the pads but also put in brand new rotors, except BMW paid for it thanks to "BMW Ultimate Service" free maintenance.

Rotors like most things on cars are over-engineered and can actually last much longer than just one set of pads. Manufacturers however short-change the rotors for safety reasons and to stay well within operating tolerances, or so the dealer can make a buck or two.

Of course I could be wrong and perhaps your rotors really are "shot", but based on my own experiences and how I regularly give my brakes a beat-down, it doesn't seem likely to me.

KRCRS4

thanks for your help.

BergeyRPI

Blue means they are overheated and yes they are shot.

KRCRS4

Thanks

KRCRS4

thanks

JMSIV

Rotor thickness or integrity (no cracks) should be used to determine when they are done. If they are not pulsing when braking, then they are not warped enough to matter. If they still have enough thickness and they are not cracked, then they don't need to be replaced.