DaytonaRS4

I wanted to find out how much your dealers have charged for front pads?
dealer said $740 installed ?
is this good
Car only has 23k miles and was never tracked and not driven hard?

Sound right

Reggie

I put non OEM on to reduce the dust. - They are not too hard to do.

Centric Posi Quiet Semi-Metallic pads: http://www.zeckhausen.com/Audi/RS4.htm

Pete@ECSTuning

That is nearly 400 dollars more than the pads cost them selves. It really is not too hard to do pads, why not DIY and save some serious money?!

Check here for pad options. As stated above, non-OEM pads can lend some serious benefits!

GregB7S4

I was quoted a bit less by my dealer. I opted for the centric pads and stock rotors both at 30k miles done by an independant garage.

JMSIV

That's an understatement! Hard to imagine an easier set of pads to change. Hardest part is unplugging the sensor!

ArthurPE

I got a set of oem (TRW) off ebay for $100, sensors and all
they took an hour to put on...

don't see them anymore
should have bought 2 sets

only have the rears $30
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-...Q5fAccessories

Kringle

Hi guys,

I recently did my first track day in the RS4. I survived with stock pads bt they are probably well used or close to it. I am likely going to have to face the fact that I need to switch pads for track days but I want any feed back available for the Ferrodo DS 2500. Are thay OK for track days and street as well? I had previously pads that were great for track but sqeelwed too much on the street. I have been advised to go to the 2500's. Opinions?

2. Does anyon e have the torque specs for the bolts in volved in changing out the pads? A step by step guide (with photos?) would also be great. I have done it a number of times on my WRX but the RS4 is unfamiliar to me and I don't want to get anything wrong.

Thanks in advace.

ELEVENS

They're Brembos. The calipers don't even have to be removed and there is nothing to torque. Just drive out the 2 pins and lift out the pads

Kringle

Can you point out where the pins are in the pic? Just on top where the outer caliper body attaches to the inner body? I think I see what you mean but I want to be sure before I start hitting. When you say to drive out the pins, what are you using? Are there little clips to look for? And where is the wire for the wear sensor?

On a related note, should I have the same compound pad on the rear or does it not matter too much? Are the rears similarly easy?

Thanks so much!

PS have you tried the DS 2500?

JMSIV

The pins are the two tapered... pins... that are sticking out through the shiny black calipers. Once the wheel is off, it will be obvious. You need a small punch (or a 16 penny nail) and a light hammer, and a medium sized flat screw driver. Tap the pins out, front to back, careful not to scratch the pretty calipers! There are metal retaining clips under each pin. Push them towards the pads and the pins just slide out the back. Remove the pins and clips. Lever the screwdriver on the edge of the pad and the disc, easiest at one corner of the pad, and gently push the pad back to retract the piston. Slide out pad, insert new pad. If the new pad is too thick, put the old one back in and retract the piston a little more.

One pad on each front caliper has a wire to the pad wear sensor. The plug is behind the caliper and can be hard to see. It snaps into a metal bracket. There is a plastic tab with a small pin that fits into the bracket. You have to lift the pin out and twist the plug, and the whole thing will rotate free of the bracket. Then just unplug the sensor. You will have a brake warning light come on, but it doesn't matter. My recommendation: pry the sensors out of the factory pads and zip tie them back to one of the lines in the wheel well. No more brake warning light, and now you can swap pads without hassle. Plus, the metal clip on the sensor in the factory pads has been known to score the rotors if you let the pad wear down. You should always be visually inspecting your pads, not waiting for an idiot light to tell you that you are about to die.

To replace the retaining clips, make sure the pads are seated and press the clip firmly in place. Slip the pin in from the back. If you squeeze down the clip, the pin will simply slide back into the hole in the front of the caliper. Then just tap it from the back until it seats completely. Remember to pump the brakes a few times to push the pistons back out - you won't have a brake for the first push or two.

I have used 2500s. They are good for light track duty, but if you push the car I think you will overwhelm them. This car is really heavy and hard on brakes on track. I am not the best to ask though. I bought the car to use on track, I really have only had it out a few times, and mostly in the rain (as you can see). Stock pads are just fine in the rain!

Be safe, and enjoy!

Oh... rears are much harder to change, must pull the caliper and use a pad retraction tool. I generally leave the factory pads. Sitting still, the car has 60% of the weight on the front axles. Under hard braking, the back end probably weighs like 8 pounds. You just aren't getting a lot of help back there...