RS4 75K Service?
#1
RS4 75K Service?
I just picked up my first 2008 RS4 and was wondering if anyone knows what exactly needs to be done for the 75k service (plugs, air filter, cabin filter, rear diff fluid, manuel gear fluid - lifetime?). I don't take it to Audi because more things are broken then fixed when I get the car back.
I drove it and according to my *** dyno I immediately noticed that this is not what an RS4 should feel like (my wife's B8 S4 pulls harder). Sure enough after opening the intake manifold I was right. If a car had emphysema then this is what it would look like. One set was cleaned on Monday 7 more to go.
I drove it and according to my *** dyno I immediately noticed that this is not what an RS4 should feel like (my wife's B8 S4 pulls harder). Sure enough after opening the intake manifold I was right. If a car had emphysema then this is what it would look like. One set was cleaned on Monday 7 more to go.
#3
I just picked up my first 2008 RS4 and was wondering if anyone knows what exactly needs to be done for the 75k service (plugs, air filter, cabin filter, rear diff fluid, manuel gear fluid - lifetime?). I don't take it to Audi because more things are broken then fixed when I get the car back.
I drove it and according to my *** dyno I immediately noticed that this is not what an RS4 should feel like (my wife's B8 S4 pulls harder). Sure enough after opening the intake manifold I was right. If a car had emphysema then this is what it would look like. One set was cleaned on Monday 7 more to go.
I drove it and according to my *** dyno I immediately noticed that this is not what an RS4 should feel like (my wife's B8 S4 pulls harder). Sure enough after opening the intake manifold I was right. If a car had emphysema then this is what it would look like. One set was cleaned on Monday 7 more to go.
what is your technique?
#4
AudiWorld Expert
#5
AudiWorld Super User
Agreed that is extremely clean. Personally I don't believe it's worth the extra effort to go that clean in light of the demise that's inevitable in only a few hundred miles. This is one job where "good enough" works pretty good.
#6
I know once I get mine cleaned I will start using a BG apparatus since that seems to have soften the carbon on the valves at least making it much easier for subsequent cleanings. It seems to be worth a shot especially for those doing the cleaning themselves plus soft carbon build up might hopefully be safer for the engine.
#7
AudiWorld Super User
I'm just not sold on frequent BG apparatus cleanings. The solvents used are, well, very good solvents! But they don't burn very well either. I worry that they wash the lubrication from the cylinder walls, piston skirts and rings at the precise time those parts need it the most - when we're flushing hard bits of carbon crap off the intake ports, valves, piston top, and combustion chamber head.
This is all unproven theory of course, but I'm not willing to chance it just for the sake of making CB cleaning a little bit easier. Do the clean every 15K miles and it's really not too bad. Wait until 30K+ miles and you'll have your hands full and your back will ache!
This is all unproven theory of course, but I'm not willing to chance it just for the sake of making CB cleaning a little bit easier. Do the clean every 15K miles and it's really not too bad. Wait until 30K+ miles and you'll have your hands full and your back will ache!
Last edited by ELEVENS; 07-05-2012 at 12:17 PM.
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#8
I'm just not sold on frequent BG apparatus cleanings. The solvents used are, well, very good solvents! But they don't burn very well either. I worry that they wash the lubrication from the cylinder walls, piston skirts and rings at the precise time those parts need it the most - when we're flushing hard bits of carbon crap off the intake ports, valves, piston top, and combustion chamber head.
This is all unproven theory of course, but I'm not willing to chance it just for the sake of making CB cleaning a little bit easier. Do the clean every 15K miles and it's really not too bad. Wait until 30K+ miles and you'll have your hands full and your back will ache!
This is all unproven theory of course, but I'm not willing to chance it just for the sake of making CB cleaning a little bit easier. Do the clean every 15K miles and it's really not too bad. Wait until 30K+ miles and you'll have your hands full and your back will ache!
I was going to do all of this myself but figured if I can get them to do it for free go that route. If not, I will be taking it apart in the Fall...just too hot out to do this now.
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Sounds like the best approach. I wish my stealer would have done a CC. I did end up contacting Audi NA and they just gave me the run around with a side of BS and a topping of boiler-plate blah blah.
#10
Thanks for the info Elevens!
So I used 3 products: Seafoam, Safey Clean and 2+2. I also used 2 tooth brushes one that was trimmed on one side of the head so it reaches really close to the base of the valve and the other one that was not modified to clean the walls and stem.
I found that the 2+2 works the best but you have to be careful not to let it run because it will destroy rubber o-rings and gaskets. I am gonna have to replace all the o-rings for the injectors just to be on the safe side.
I let the Seafoam soak over night on the closed valves this helps to loosen it up greatly. Then I used the brushes to loosen it up into a thick "milk shake" like consistency with the help of 2+2. Finally, the rubber bulb was used to suction out all the gunk but it is a bit viscous at times so I used a bit of 2+2 to make it less viscous.
I don't know how I'm gonna clean the intake manifold do you guys have any experience with that?
Did anyone hear any good things about any water/methanol kits to help reduce this process or any other methods to slow the process down?
So I used 3 products: Seafoam, Safey Clean and 2+2. I also used 2 tooth brushes one that was trimmed on one side of the head so it reaches really close to the base of the valve and the other one that was not modified to clean the walls and stem.
I found that the 2+2 works the best but you have to be careful not to let it run because it will destroy rubber o-rings and gaskets. I am gonna have to replace all the o-rings for the injectors just to be on the safe side.
I let the Seafoam soak over night on the closed valves this helps to loosen it up greatly. Then I used the brushes to loosen it up into a thick "milk shake" like consistency with the help of 2+2. Finally, the rubber bulb was used to suction out all the gunk but it is a bit viscous at times so I used a bit of 2+2 to make it less viscous.
I don't know how I'm gonna clean the intake manifold do you guys have any experience with that?
Did anyone hear any good things about any water/methanol kits to help reduce this process or any other methods to slow the process down?