Originally Posted by NWS4Guy

You can limp home if it's not too hot outside, and you can keep your speed down under about 45 by putting the windows down and cranking the heater to MAX. I know, mine failed about 7 miles from home just now.

I pulled over on the freeway shoulder immediately, the DIS was not telling me to yet, but I happened to look down and the very top portion of the DIS which displays the current track playing was a red flashing thermometer, and the analog dial was rapidly climing to the top of the guage. I flipped over to the Lap Timer and oil temps were registering 255F.

I had been in Dynamic mode, going about 60MPH for the past several miles, the outside air temp was 50F and my oil temps under these conditions normally are about 221F. After deciding that it was not safe to try and flatbed the car where I pulled, and knowing I the area I was 3/4 of a mile from the next exit, so I waited till a break in traffic to crank the car and risk it. I pulled into traffic quickly but not revving too high to keep temps as low as possible, maxed out the heater and exited. The needle swiftly dropped to the normal area, so I decided to see how far I could get doing back roads with speed limits of 40 and under the rest of the way home.

On the way I would shut the car off immediately at any stoplights I was caught at, and immediately turn it back on again to accessory to keep the heater going, the crank the car as traffic started again. I knew that the heater core bypasses the thermostat and would help, but I didn't think it would be capable of keeping the entire engine cool, yet for miles, the oil temps steadily dropped until getting back to a very normal 217F, while the temp needle held fast in the center. I figured the T-stat had unstuck, so I turned off the heater so I could bear to stand the temps in the car, so I drove for another mile with no heater, and the needle immediately started to climb again after about a mile, so back to the heater again, and the guage normalized again.

I managed to drive in Comfort (to keep engine revs and therefore heat generation low) the 7 miles with the temps doing fine so long as I had the heater maxed and the windows and roof open - so I could handle the heat, and thankfully it was not raining! I plan to call Audi Roadside first thing in the morning, and have them come to my house and flatbed her to the dealer. I'll vanpool in to work tomorrow (thankfully something I started doing occasionally last week) and see if it will be ready by end of day tomorrow.

I'll see about getting them to take some pics of the IC's and my intake valves too

Originally Posted by xxShadowxx

Anyone know the approx build date range for the affected thermostats? Mine was built Dec of 2010. According to the dealer, my car already has the newer part. Audi is being smart to catch these before they have to issue an actual recall; probably helps their reliability ratings somehow.

If my t-stat blows, I'm gonna whoop some Audi of Stuttgart ***.

Originally Posted by rich8506

These are the vehicles effected

U.S.A.

2010-2011 A6
WAU_ G_FB_AN001608 - WAU_G_FB_BN030581
Production date: May 28, 2009 – October 01, 2010

2011 Q7
WA1_G_FE_BD000447 – WA1_G_FE_BD003507
Production date: August 13, 2010 – September 30, 2010

2010-2011 S5 Cabrio
WAU_GAFH_AN005249 – WAU_GAFH_BN006387
Production date: June 10, 2009 – September 29, 2010

2010-2011 S4
WAU_G_FL_AA007653 – WAU_G_FL_BA055169
Production date: June 05, 2009 – October 04, 2010


CANADA

2010-2011 A6
WAU_ G_FB_AN002163 - WAU_G_FB_BN030081
Production date: May 27, 2009 – September 30, 2010

2011 Q7
WA1_G_FE_BD001023 – WA1_G_FE_BD003508
Production date: July 13, 2010 – September 30, 2010

2010-2011 S5 Cabrio
WAU_GAFH_AN005314 – WAU_GAFH_BN006375
Production date: June 12, 2009 – September 30, 2010

2010-2011 S4
WAU_G_FL_AA007954 – WAU_G_FL_BA052350
Production date: June 03, 2009 – September 28, 2010

Originally Posted by primetime

Interesting... My dealer showed me the hose, it is one of the two that is used to connect the tubing to the harder plastic tubes that flow between the intercoolers... the hole was on the backside of it which made it even harder to detect and like yours only acted up when the car was driven hard... So I didn't notice anything until I hit the track and then popped the hood with coolant sprayed everywhere... The Service Manager said that AOA wanted to hose sent in for examiniation which I thought was weird unless they percieve a bigger problem... Keep us posted with what happens to yours and sorry about your luck... later Ron

Originally Posted by PsYkHoTiK

Yeah, I think it is definitely this hose:


The tops part where that drips from, if I wipe it away (while the car is still idling), I can see it slowly running back out. Each time I look, its always that same spot that shows coolant running. It's right beside the super charger belt, and right over the water pump pulley (I'm guessing it drips onto the rotating pulley which then sprays it all over my engine - and the "concentrated spray on my hood liner is right over that area). The dealer said they'll do a full check (I have a track day in two weeks so I need it @ 100%). I'll keep you guys posted.



For those that get their T-stat replaced, watch your coolant level! Coolant level in my pic above shows it on a warmed up engine. Cold it drops about an inch or so further down in the tank.

Originally Posted by Waudi

How many miles were on your car when the T-stat failed. I am at 4k and I think i am going to wait for my first oil change at 5k. I would think it would hold until then...fingers crossed.

On another note how do you get lap times and oil temp?