Bobby Kinstle

After driving around and listening to it for a day, I think I'll leave it where it's at. Some music sounds better at treble 0 and some at +1. +1 helps with the road noise. However, the new crossover point really brought out the basslines in music that I was missing and appreciated. The system sounds richer and fuller with the 5Khz crossover point. I added capacitor values to the guide for balanced, a little bright, and very bright so people can choose what they want from their system.

Bobby Kinstle

I had some problems with the sub cutting out again, but it was because I didn't really make a good connection with the resistor bank. I took them out a week or so ago to take picture for my favorite automotive forums and jiggled it loose. Today I soldered the resistor wire to the sub output channel wires, and then connected to the LoC and now it's playing solid and reliable again.

Bobby Kinstle

I recently discovered that disabling the soundaktor (fake engine noisemaker) really helps the poor midbass performance of the stereo. Most of the fake engine noise it makes is in the same midbass frequency range so turning it off means lower volume levels overall to get to the same quality levels I like to hear. There isn't a huge difference between the overall noise level between the "comfort" setting and disabled otherwise. On the S4 the exhaust note is still pretty obvious.

There are several ways to turn it off. You can use VCDS or OBD11 to set the volume to 0.

Module: A9 Structure Borne Sound Description: Volume adjustment for the Soundaktor engine inside the car. To mute, use value: 0. Adaptation Default Value 100 New Value 0

You can pull the fuse (I don't know which fuse it is or if other things are also on that fuse). Lastly you can unplug it's power cable from the driver which is located on the engine side of the firewall underneath the plastic trim on the bottom of the windshield.

Sab

Hi, my sub blew last year so I did that following your guide, worked out VERY well
Recently, the front door mid range speaker also blew, it's always rattling at specific frequencies, right next to my ear, so I'm going to replace everything except the tweeters and rear door subs. Just got 2 questions. I'm using the stock amp (B&O sound system). Can it handle the speakers you've recommended? Also, why do you recommend the 8ohm mids above the 4ohm? I assume 8ohm is better with the stock amp anyway.

Bobby Kinstle

Yes the stock amp has plenty of power for the midrange speakers.

I really prefer the Peerless GBS dome midrange (4 ohm) but since it's not available hardly anywhere in the pandemic world, my second choice is the Faital Pro mid in the guide. I suggested the 8 ohm version because this driver is extremely bright and a couple users commented that it was too loud. Using the 8 ohm version cuts the power in half and so reduces the SPL by 3dB which keeps it from overwhelming the anemic front door woofer (you can increase bass by reducing everything that isn't bass). Really when it comes to car audio, I think it's best that you chase what you think sounds good above other "perfect system" goals.

Sab

Yeah, it's very hard to find anything, even the spacers. All the recommended speakers are out of stock and the rings aren't avaliable in the UK. Same situation for the woofers harness so I'll have to cut some wires. Basser selling the DMaudi03 MDF ring apparantly ship to all over the world except the UK now (from Poland, EU). I can have the Scosche SAVW651 brought in for Canada but it costs £40 just for a plastic ring. I'll probably get the A3 one and add some material in between.

I have bought the Faital 4FE32s for the mids and front grill. As for the woofer, I'm hoping you can give me a bit of advice. I'm looking at the Faital 6FE100 and 6RS140. The 6RS140 costs nearly four times as much as the FE. I don't understand the technical jargon, or what actual difference they make so here are the key points:
RS is thinner by 0.34", it fills slightly (10%) less air than the FE but it's got a neodymium ring over the FE's ferrite. The RS has higher freq range (60-6000 vs 63-5000) but lower sensitivity by 2dB. Most importantly, the FE handles 100W power whereas the RS handles 200W. So it's mainly about power delivery with the stock amp. I don't know if the stock amp will make use of this difference in power but I do listen to fairly loud music since I enjoy bass.

Do you think there will be any difference in what my ears pick up on? Thank you

Bobby Kinstle

I looked at the 6FE100 at the beginning of the project, but I rejected it because it has very poor bass response (and the front door woofer is just a bass driver) and I think that hex shape would be hard to deal with in there. There is a lot of room however, so I'm sure you could make it fit. It's really meant to be a midrange speaker. Remember the front door only plays 43hz to 160hz. The 6RS140 is pretty much the same boat. It's meant to be a midrange and rolls off below 150hz without an enclosure (car doors usually match the free air response charts pretty well). Neo magnets are cool and all but you have tons of space available so no need to pay a bunch extra for a compact magnet.

Can you order from Parts Express? They have lots of good 6.5" woofers in stock ranging from $25 to $90 including the Aurum Cantus woofers

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...Woofer-295-528
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...Woofer-295-428
https://www.parts-express.com/Aurum-...Woofer-296-410

I've worked with this place in France that's pretty great also. This woofer is in stock and looks like it could be a good fit for you. There's a little roll off but it's still above 85dB at 45Hz.
https://www.toutlehautparleur.com/ha...hm-168-mm.html

Sab

Thank you very much. I couldn't order internationally from most US sellers including Crutchfield so I assumed it was the same for Parts Express but no, they actually do post across the Atlantic. I've now ordered a set of those Aurums.

bruce_miranda

Why didn't you ask me, I am based in the UK and would have made recommendations that are easier to get and find in the UK.
Just get the 8ohm version of
https://www.ciare.com/prodotto/?codice=HWG160#
You won't regret it. And if you want the correct spacers and hardware to make that work in your car, get in touch with me.
See the sort of stuff I can provide.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b9-platform-discussion-212/audi-sound-system-speaker-upgrade-3013616/

Sab

Damn... That's unfortunate. Didn't think of asking around here for UK buying advice. The Aurums are already on their way to me. I did look around for the HWG160 but have only just now found it being sold at autiokit.it. Other Italian sites don't ship to the UK anymore.

I ended up buying a pair of MDF mounts. I'd ask for a pair of plastic ones, but don't yet know the width between the holes of the Aurum woofers. Got the harnesses coming from China and one pair of tweeters for the front (Dayton AF25Ns, last stock) from Germany.

If the Aurums are inadequate as woofers, maybe I'll return them to the US. It will take nearly a month before I receive the harnesses though...