Rear deck subwoofer upgrade from B&O
08-13-2023, 01:06 PM
#191
AudiWorld Uber User
Thread Starter
So I did the 10" kicker sub install on the deck lid and I came out great and wasnt much of an issue. But I'm now having issues with music cutting out at higher volumes since the sub draws just too much power when trying to push deeper bass notes. But I was looking to install a powered amplifier just to push the one sub ( I may add a second in the future but will cross that bridge when I get there) but if you could make any suggestions that would be great. Also while I'm at it when you connect an amp to the system can I use the wires that are currently connected to the subwoofer? (one set or both?) I'm looking for the most plug n' play ready situation. Thank you for the help with my questions about the install wiring from the stock sub everything was very helpful and really reduced my time spent on the project.
08-18-2023, 06:35 AM
#192
I believe so
THe Kicker Key500.1 is pretty much the amp of choice for our cars. I'm a little surprised it's cutting out though. You are wired for 4 ohms right? I've driven mine to hitting mechanical limits of the subwoofer with the factory amp without any cut outs. 2 ohms will cause the amp to cut out.
Hi so yes I believe I did it correctly I looked up what colors are positive and. Negative then wired direct to the sub and yes I made sure to flip the continuity since the sub is being driven in the opposite direction of the stock sub. But anyway I went ahead and bought a cheap two channel amp and have the two channels wired to the connectors on the speaker and while it's much louder I am not getting clean bass notes sounds a bit garbled or something sometimes. Any suggestions on wiring the sub from an amplifier would be great since I feel like I'm not doing it right for some reason. I may buy the kicker amp to go with the speaker but would be great if I can figure this out without spending more money. Anyway thanks for the help in advance.
08-22-2023, 09:28 PM
#193
AudiWorld Uber User
Thread Starter
Hi so yes I believe I did it correctly I looked up what colors are positive and. Negative then wired direct to the sub and yes I made sure to flip the continuity since the sub is being driven in the opposite direction of the stock sub. But anyway I went ahead and bought a cheap two channel amp and have the two channels wired to the connectors on the speaker and while it's much louder I am not getting clean bass notes sounds a bit garbled or something sometimes. Any suggestions on wiring the sub from an amplifier would be great since I feel like I'm not doing it right for some reason. I may buy the kicker amp to go with the speaker but would be great if I can figure this out without spending more money. Anyway thanks for the help in advance.
You can use an audiocontrol LC2I to convert the signal but you'll still need to add an external load below 50 ohms to both outputs or disable the subwoofer presense check with VCDS to get the output to stay on.
04-30-2024, 07:53 PM
#194
So this happened today! Not fully installed but close. Not a drop in sub but not to bad.
These are getting installed aswell and I’m gonna be running them with a helix V Eight dsp that has eight channels of amplification and two more of DSP control.
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Bobby Kinstle (04-30-2024)
04-30-2024, 08:58 PM
#195
AudiWorld Uber User
Thread Starter
What drivers are those?
05-01-2024, 09:09 AM
#197
AudiWorld Uber User
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Does it include a crossover? If not I suggest crossing the mid/tweeter at 5Khz 2nd order. I can help with the crossover deisgn if you need it. The midrange has terrible breakup above 10Khz (common on carbon fiber cones) and the tweeter has good impedance stability right at 5Khz. I'd also pull 5db off the tweeter to level match with the midrange. The tweeter has a rising response above 4500 so 10K and up will still be quite a bit louder than the midrange even with 5dB reduction, but I think it'll be OK in the car and help it cut the road noise.
05-01-2024, 01:27 PM
#198
Going full active. The mids will be crossed somewhere around 300 up to a start of 3k. Tweeters we’ll start there and will be in the dash in the factory 2.5” spot.
with the helix DSP I’ll have full control and attenuation on each speaker so I’ll be able to tame any particulars out
I appreciate the offer for help and may take you up on it when it’s installed.
with the helix DSP I’ll have full control and attenuation on each speaker so I’ll be able to tame any particulars out
I appreciate the offer for help and may take you up on it when it’s installed.
05-01-2024, 09:46 PM
#199
AudiWorld Uber User
Thread Starter
Ahh full active is totally the way to go. 300/3K is a fine crossover point. I only chose 5K because the impedance was stable there (required for passive crossovers). I'd go for a steep slope like 4th order linkwitz riley if your DSP supports that.
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