Anatomy of an accident
07-23-2000, 04:17 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 4,259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anatomy of an accident
I spent Saturday with Imola, moving her to her new shelter, and stabilizing her.
I removed the front of the car, layer by layer. I removed the bumper skin by pulling real hard! ;-) Then I removed the two bolts holding the remains of the bumper to the mounts.
Now, down to business!
Both headlight assemblies are trashed, I remove them, no tools required! :-(
I removed the A/C condenser coil, and sealed the system, moist air is VERY destructive to A/C systems, the oil is very hydroscopic. I pinched the hard lines as they left the condenser, cut them there and folded the ends over to partially seal them. Hoses look fine. I then purged the lines with a few oz of R134. The oil that came out with the R134 was clean and clear, good sign. I then sealed the folded ends.
Next, the radiator. Amazing quick release fittings used to connect it! Then the bottom shield had to be removed, VERY hard on a lowered car! I removed the front bumper mounts, and lowered the front of the car to the ground. After unplugging a mass of cables in a cluster on the left of the engine, the front section of the car was free, and could be moved away.
In studying the impact path, I was happy to find no direct path from the impact to the engine. The major force was the trailer hitch, which broke the bumper in the middle. That fracture drove into the external front fan, then the A/C condenser, then the main radiator. Behind that point, it did not strike the engine. The force of the impact did shove the entire fiberglass front-end towards the engine, with the front engine mount being forced in a bit. The radiator DID strike the clutched fan head on, shattering it, and damaging the shaft of whatever it is mounted on, water pump, I believe. I removed that fan in pieces, and cleaned the debris out. That shaft and pulley no longer turns freely, and is the most serious visible engine damage. The pulley appear unharmed, I assume the bearings in the "water pump" froze, or the impeller was shoved backwards in the pump, so it now interferes when turning. It CAN be turned with a wrench, and does not make crunching sounds, just stiff to turn. Otherwise, all the front engine plastic shows minor impact marks or cracks, but non indicate any serious flexing inward to timing belts, cam shafts, etc. The intercoolers look fine, no impact marks.
HOWEVER, given the geometry of an impact that breaks the front bumper by pushing in at a point, the bumper mounts were forced apart, and the two main arms measure just under 1 cm too far apart. If they were just splayed apart, and no compression took place, then I believe that can be fixed on the hydraulic "table", but if there are any other dimensions of damage, I will be VERY concerned about keeping the car. I am also anxious to see what is wrong with that water pump, and be sure no damage progressed past that.
But other than that, I remain further encouraged as I go. The tranny seems OK, and Imola was able to drive, under her own power, to the new enclosure. And the shock of the impact itself was well dampened before it reached any critical components, which is VERY good news.<p>Jim De Arras
<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage II (Stage III on order)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor
I removed the front of the car, layer by layer. I removed the bumper skin by pulling real hard! ;-) Then I removed the two bolts holding the remains of the bumper to the mounts.
Now, down to business!
Both headlight assemblies are trashed, I remove them, no tools required! :-(
I removed the A/C condenser coil, and sealed the system, moist air is VERY destructive to A/C systems, the oil is very hydroscopic. I pinched the hard lines as they left the condenser, cut them there and folded the ends over to partially seal them. Hoses look fine. I then purged the lines with a few oz of R134. The oil that came out with the R134 was clean and clear, good sign. I then sealed the folded ends.
Next, the radiator. Amazing quick release fittings used to connect it! Then the bottom shield had to be removed, VERY hard on a lowered car! I removed the front bumper mounts, and lowered the front of the car to the ground. After unplugging a mass of cables in a cluster on the left of the engine, the front section of the car was free, and could be moved away.
In studying the impact path, I was happy to find no direct path from the impact to the engine. The major force was the trailer hitch, which broke the bumper in the middle. That fracture drove into the external front fan, then the A/C condenser, then the main radiator. Behind that point, it did not strike the engine. The force of the impact did shove the entire fiberglass front-end towards the engine, with the front engine mount being forced in a bit. The radiator DID strike the clutched fan head on, shattering it, and damaging the shaft of whatever it is mounted on, water pump, I believe. I removed that fan in pieces, and cleaned the debris out. That shaft and pulley no longer turns freely, and is the most serious visible engine damage. The pulley appear unharmed, I assume the bearings in the "water pump" froze, or the impeller was shoved backwards in the pump, so it now interferes when turning. It CAN be turned with a wrench, and does not make crunching sounds, just stiff to turn. Otherwise, all the front engine plastic shows minor impact marks or cracks, but non indicate any serious flexing inward to timing belts, cam shafts, etc. The intercoolers look fine, no impact marks.
HOWEVER, given the geometry of an impact that breaks the front bumper by pushing in at a point, the bumper mounts were forced apart, and the two main arms measure just under 1 cm too far apart. If they were just splayed apart, and no compression took place, then I believe that can be fixed on the hydraulic "table", but if there are any other dimensions of damage, I will be VERY concerned about keeping the car. I am also anxious to see what is wrong with that water pump, and be sure no damage progressed past that.
But other than that, I remain further encouraged as I go. The tranny seems OK, and Imola was able to drive, under her own power, to the new enclosure. And the shock of the impact itself was well dampened before it reached any critical components, which is VERY good news.<p>Jim De Arras
<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage II (Stage III on order)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor
07-23-2000, 10:33 AM
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Surprised your dealer gives you free reign
I can't believe the leeway your dealer is giving you in allowing you to work on your car while it is in their posession. My experience has been that most dealers don't even like you to walk into their work area while the techs are working on your car ("Our liability insurance doesn't allow it"), let alone actually take out a screwdriver on their premises.
Guess all those Jacksons and Grants you've tipped over the years payed off!
Guess all those Jacksons and Grants you've tipped over the years payed off!
07-23-2000, 10:41 AM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 4,259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, it is just in the parking lot! But folks are just more casual around here, in general.
On Saturday, only the clean and prep folks are operating, and they were interested in my "construction". In fact, at about 3 pm, one of them stopped by to ask if he could help in anyway, he had all his work done for the day, but he has to stay to 6 pm anyway.<p>Jim De Arras
<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage II (Stage III on order)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor
<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage II (Stage III on order)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2000TTC
Audi 90 / 80 / Coupe quattro / Cabriolet
7
08-26-2003 01:12 AM
Mingstock
S4 / RS4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
19
11-12-2002 08:05 PM
What is the purpose of the tube that is behind the front bumper on the left side (if you have the ..
TTEBERTT
TT (Mk1) Discussion
3
12-19-2001 03:15 PM