Jim De Arras

<center><img src="http://www.imola.org/images/wreck/DSCF0401.JPG"></center><p>As often as I use this mode, it occured to me some of you may never have seen it. Service position gets the front of the car far enough from the engine that you can service wiring, belts, etc. without disconnecting the radiator, allowing the engine to still run for testing. To get to this position, you first remove the front bumper. Then you place the special "tools" in the front, on the driver's side it goes into the "extra" impact absorber mounting hole (they only put three bolts in that side, for some reason) and on the passenger side, you remove one bolt, then install this tool. The tool is just a long bolt, with a sleave over it to hold the positioning of the front in the large holes used to line up the trim. Then, you remove the other impact absorber bolts (leave the two little nuts in place), and the other 6 screws that hold the lock carrier (that's what they call that large black frame) to the body. Grab the two bumper mounts, and pull the whole thing forward to the stop washers on the tools. Put two of the top mounting screws back in the the top arms, using the forwardmost holes this time, and you are done!<p>Jim De Arras

<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage III (350 HP!)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor

Jim De Arras

<center><img src="http://www.imola.org/images/wreck/DSCF0402.JPG"></center><p>You can see the "tool" in front of the blue hose.<p>Jim De Arras

<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage III (350 HP!)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor

Jim De Arras

<center><img src="http://www.imola.org/images/wreck/DSCF0403.JPG"></center><p>I have the headlamp assembly out for other reasons, not needed for this operation<p>Jim De Arras

<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage III (350 HP!)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor

silvertip

Jim, you got GUTS to take this project on - your a wealth of information to this forum THANK YOU!

Link

I don't think I'll be doing this.

Tracshun

Please tell us the diameter and length of bolts required, as well as the diameter and length of the sleeve material. After laying out far too much money for the last timing belt service, this looks way too simple to pass up the next time around. Even had an independent shop pass on doing the timing belt work because of this situation. Will pass on this info to them, too,

Thanks

Jim De Arras

<center><img src="http://www.imola.org/images/wreck/DSCF0407.JPG"></center><p>It is a standard VW/Audi tool, #3396, you can probably order them from Clair parts.

It would cost more to fabricate, the sleve is open as you see, to allow it to center the sleve in the hole, even if the bolt itself was not centered, allowing the trim alignment adjustments to be saved when pulling the front out.

Please be aware that timing belt replacement in the S4 is not just a matter of slapping a new one in, several special fixtures are needed to re-time the engine. The toothed pulleys are NOT keyed on the camshafts, the crank and both cams must be pinned at top dead center, (or some fixed position, I forget the exact details), the cam pulleys loosened on the shafts, new belt installed and tenstioned, then the cam shaft pulleys are locked in position on the cams, and you remove the locks and you're done!

This takes a number of special tools and fixtures.<p>Jim De Arras

<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage III (350 HP!)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor

Tracshun

Thanks for the part number and overview