In the continuing quest for shifter improvement, I have the following good news:
11-27-2006, 05:10 AM
#1
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In the continuing quest for shifter improvement, I have the following good news:
Many folks have asked me if they could replace their shifter "ball joint" due to wear. This is not necessary.
Having installed at least 50 TG shifters, I can confirm that ball joint wear is a problem, but usually minor.
The solution is not very difficult, and the improvement is quite noticable:
* Unscrew the ****.
* Unsnap shifter cover by pulling up on the rear. Put your fingers into the shifter boot and pull straight up.
* Undo the large snap ring holding the shifter ball joint. This is not easy... I purpously bent the tangs of some long-nose needle-nose pliers for the task.
* Remove the washer and top rubber ring.
* Apply and tighten 1/8" wide zip ties (cable ties) to the exposed ball joint holder. I used 2 ties, daisy-chained for the sufficient length, making sure that there was a little bit of clearance between ball and holder. Don't make this a tight fit between ball and holder!
* Apply new grease to ball joint.
* Replace rubber ring and washer.
* Replace snap ring. Again, not easy, but my modified pliers worked out fine.
Result: with the TG shifter the left-right slop is now almost nonexistant. Front-back slop is due to the tranny and is minimal. I've known about this for many years but until now had never implemented it.
Having installed at least 50 TG shifters, I can confirm that ball joint wear is a problem, but usually minor.
The solution is not very difficult, and the improvement is quite noticable:
* Unscrew the ****.
* Unsnap shifter cover by pulling up on the rear. Put your fingers into the shifter boot and pull straight up.
* Undo the large snap ring holding the shifter ball joint. This is not easy... I purpously bent the tangs of some long-nose needle-nose pliers for the task.
* Remove the washer and top rubber ring.
* Apply and tighten 1/8" wide zip ties (cable ties) to the exposed ball joint holder. I used 2 ties, daisy-chained for the sufficient length, making sure that there was a little bit of clearance between ball and holder. Don't make this a tight fit between ball and holder!
* Apply new grease to ball joint.
* Replace rubber ring and washer.
* Replace snap ring. Again, not easy, but my modified pliers worked out fine.
Result: with the TG shifter the left-right slop is now almost nonexistant. Front-back slop is due to the tranny and is minimal. I've known about this for many years but until now had never implemented it.
11-27-2006, 05:41 AM
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Cool deal Craig! Do you have a picture of the mod?
My mechanically declined brain is having problems envisioning this mod. Does it work on moth the new and old style shifters?
11-27-2006, 06:12 AM
#5
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I don't have the right image, but....
after removing this ring, then the metal "washer" and rubber ring under it, I believe Craig is suggesting a cable tie wrapping around the white plastic part that cradles the ball joint. This would create a tighter connection between the ball and socket.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/shortshifter/dsc01907.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/shortshifter/dsc01904.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/shortshifter/dsc01907.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/shortshifter/dsc01904.jpg">
11-27-2006, 06:13 AM
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any pics? im looking at my shifter now, and i dont understand where to apply the zipties...
does it matter with oldstyle shifter vs new? the ring and washer are not removed from the shifter assembly, correct? it seems the large white thing (old style) will not allow removal of that washer
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11-27-2006, 08:03 AM
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The c-clip ring is a reeal fun one. Not for the faint. Recommended to use wire ties..
with a metal insert in the retaining clip.
I thought of using wire ties the first time that I did this. However, I found that a more permanent fix was to use mechanic's wire (thinner than coat hanger) and put several turns of that around the cage. Twist it all off nice and neatly so as not to expand and.. wa-la! Tighter shifts.
I thought of using wire ties the first time that I did this. However, I found that a more permanent fix was to use mechanic's wire (thinner than coat hanger) and put several turns of that around the cage. Twist it all off nice and neatly so as not to expand and.. wa-la! Tighter shifts.
