Going to change rear brake lines tonight at a tech session. Anything special I need to know?
07-14-2004, 11:18 AM
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Going to change rear brake lines tonight at a tech session. Anything special I need to know?
I did my fronts when I installed my BBK, but I neglected to do the rears. I need to re-bleed, so now is as good a time as any.
07-14-2004, 11:27 AM
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Use a flare wrench.
Several people have had trouble with a few of those fittings (they are overtorqued from the factory). So don't be totally shocked if you end up stripping one of them (the flare wrench will minimize that possibility).
Generally I like the pressure bleeders, but when you get large amounts of air into the lines from a SS line upgrade, I prefer pumping the brake pedal to force the air out.
Generally I like the pressure bleeders, but when you get large amounts of air into the lines from a SS line upgrade, I prefer pumping the brake pedal to force the air out.
07-14-2004, 11:39 AM
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There's 2 lines per corner, do inner line first.
Actually, to cut down on the mess, I pitched off the inner line with a vice-grip. Then i switched out the outerline. That way, there was minimal fluid leakage.
Then, I worked to replace the inner line, the outer connection first. While it's still pinched off, I disconnected the outer connection, replaced that connection with the new line.
I then disconnected the inner connection last.
Then, I worked to replace the inner line, the outer connection first. While it's still pinched off, I disconnected the outer connection, replaced that connection with the new line.
I then disconnected the inner connection last.
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07-14-2004, 12:30 PM
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Not really...
The difference is the pressure bleeder pressurizes the entire system from the reservoir to the caliper. While that's usually fine, there have been issues with the reservoirs cracking/exploding, and there are some lines running off the reservoir with no clamps on them. Hell, the reservoir is press fit onto the master cylinder.
So think about what could happen if you pressurize that part of the system as high as the pressure the rest of the system is designed to take. By using the brake pedal, you maintain pressure where you need it, and where the system was designed to handle it.
Now, if you just need to push some fresh fluid through, and you know there are no air bubbles that need to be forced out, using the pressure bleeder at a low setting (~7 spi) is just fine.
Oh, and that reminds me Matt. Keep a garden hose handy anytime you're dealing with brake fluid. You never know when something might go wrong, and that stuff will do some damage to your paint. I knocked over a jar full of brake fluid once...that pretty much made my night!
So think about what could happen if you pressurize that part of the system as high as the pressure the rest of the system is designed to take. By using the brake pedal, you maintain pressure where you need it, and where the system was designed to handle it.
Now, if you just need to push some fresh fluid through, and you know there are no air bubbles that need to be forced out, using the pressure bleeder at a low setting (~7 spi) is just fine.
Oh, and that reminds me Matt. Keep a garden hose handy anytime you're dealing with brake fluid. You never know when something might go wrong, and that stuff will do some damage to your paint. I knocked over a jar full of brake fluid once...that pretty much made my night!