I ran Redline Synthetic 10W40 right before my turbos blew. Anyone run that? Any problems? I saw
#1
I ran Redline Synthetic 10W40 right before my turbos blew. Anyone run that? Any problems? I saw
awesome oil temps, but a week after I changed it the turbos went kaboom. Wondering if I should change it when I put the K04s in or not.
#5
What made you decide to run 10WXX? Isn't that a bit 'heavy'.. Proper warm up time.
would increase.. But really have no idea.. maybe they were on their way out and the change in oil weight hastened the event... ??
#6
I know the manual says to only run 0w-xx or 5w-xx oils, BUT my dealer puts in dino 10w-30 in B5 S4's
for the AoA paid-for oil changes; and they used to put in 15w-40 dino before that. They claimed that they have never replaced a set of turbo's on an S4. Now that may be B.S., and I did in fact complain to AoA about them using the wrong oil. Bottom line was AoA told me dealer could use any oil they wanted to, as they would be doing warranty work if turbos blew. Again, this may be B.S. If you ran the car hard when cold and shut down hot right after a hard run, then ignore my ramblings; but I don't think that you did that.
But here's my reasoning: Redline 10w-40 HAS to pump quicker than dino 10w-30, especially in the winter. The 10w-40 probably isn't the best for you engine, but there are plenty of people using M1 15w-50 in warm climates. If the Redline 10w-40 caused your turbos to fail in a week or so, I would think that others would have seen the same thing. How could this viscosity be so much worse than people running their cars a couple of quarts low (as I have seen posted here in the past)?
IMO, it was just a coincidence. Would I use the same oil again? Probably not; I would go with M1 0w-40 just to be safe and sure.
But here's my reasoning: Redline 10w-40 HAS to pump quicker than dino 10w-30, especially in the winter. The 10w-40 probably isn't the best for you engine, but there are plenty of people using M1 15w-50 in warm climates. If the Redline 10w-40 caused your turbos to fail in a week or so, I would think that others would have seen the same thing. How could this viscosity be so much worse than people running their cars a couple of quarts low (as I have seen posted here in the past)?
IMO, it was just a coincidence. Would I use the same oil again? Probably not; I would go with M1 0w-40 just to be safe and sure.
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#10
I'm almost positive that they are referring to the HTHS Viscosity value which is measured at 150 C.
The real value or benefit of a synthetic is that it has a truer viscosity (actually, higher viscosity index) due to the uniformity of the molecules. Multi-weight dino oils depend on viscosity modifiers to acheive their ratings, but this is a compromise due to the way these additives actually function. This should have no effect on the number that comes before the "w" (as in 10w-xx). It will not be thicker than a 10w at cold temps.