davenew

The APR exhaust is very close (1/16"?) to the heat shield at the center of the car. It makes a slight rattle, usually on decel. I've readjusted and replaced the clamps, etc. While refitting the last time I noticed one test pipe is approx. 1/2"-3/4" longer than the other side. It keeps the other side from fully inserting but far enough to not leak. I didn't think much about it at the time.

The slightly longer test pipe forces the rear half of the exhaust to set farther back. THe bottom of the rubber hangers are leaned rearward. Hmm, if the hangers aren't vertical, the exhaust isn't sitting as low as it would otherwise. Does it sound reasonable? Maybe I'll shorten the testpipe with my dremel..
thanks

FixedWing

Yesterday I put my dampers back to STaSIS's "aggressive street" setting. In fact, I tried it two clicks harder on the compression.

Still feels fine so far as the harshness of the ride and on slower roads it is ok but fast on highways I don't like it at all! Gone completely is that feeling of the car being absolutely connected with the road. Ditto under hard braking where the tyre seems to lose traction over hard bumps.

It really is amazing how adjustable this setup is and how much of a difference the adjustments make. I've got a lot to learn. :-))

Hope you have a happy new year Dave!

Stephen

4RNGS

I want to ride in your car Dave, see what stg III feels like --> I hope that works for you

davenew

Actually, I have a detailed list of recommended ohlin settings, with hours of track time. I might be able to divulge the info.. after a quick spin in your other car. Just kidding!

I didn't want to post about it before because some of these guys will call it "****". When I took the audi techs for a ride they commented on how it rode so smooth, like stock. That setting really was like stock. Shortly afterward, I set the fronts 3 clicks harder (+5-6 rear) and it felt like another car. I can feel every slight bump in the road but not to the point of being really harsh. Turn-in was so much tighter that it really took awhile to adjust my driving, like when changing lanes, etc. It sounds **** but it really is noticable.

FixedWing

I think I'm going to have to develop my own list. It varies based upon conditions.

As I said, it was nice for backroads but not effective at all for high speeds (cornering at 110 MPH on a wet highway overpass with studded Hakkas) or braking (wet, rough downtown section on approach to a light).

On the highway the car felt unstable like it was disconnecting with the road over irregularites (not just bumps). It seemed to want to skate. I was constantly having to make little corrections. On the braking the front felt solid and just didn't seem to want to give feedback. Nor did it seem directionally stable.

Quite an amazing difference considering it was just two clicks on compression damping and didn't really feel more harsh. From memory, the settings were -12 at the back, -6 rebound at the front and -8 compression at the front.

At all of these settings the car turns in really well. Basically they are all firm enough to get the front to transition quickly. So no big improvement there.

I will set the comression back to -10 and see how that feels again.

Anyway, I'd love to see whatever info you have!

Stephen

Mark P

and then connect the testpipes to the exhaust. This allows you to put a 2x4 or similar over the testpipe/cat foward flanges, and bang it into the exhaust for a tight fit. Just be sure you have the testpipes at the required angle to meet up with the downpipes

davenew

One side is fully inserted. Before joining the pipes I scribed the insertion length on both test pipes. There is no way to get the other side fully inserted because the other pipe is already bottomed out.
Since the rear hangers are not vertical I know the test pipe that's fully inserted must be too long, not the other way around.