Level 10 Tip guys-
#1
Level 10 Tip guys-
Hi All,
I have a client who wants to do K04's and maybe a Level 10.
I have not heard any long term results or reviews. Could you please either post them or email me privately.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
I have a client who wants to do K04's and maybe a Level 10.
I have not heard any long term results or reviews. Could you please either post them or email me privately.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
#2
Here's my experience...
The Level10 setup I had worked well... quick shifts, solid feel, and still quite streetable. Nothing seemed to slip, and temperatures stayed within acceptable operating range. As you know, I am running the standard APR Stage III kit, and one-off, best guess code.
The only real issue I had was an ocassional reluctant shift on the 104 program, (which dyno'd about 370 hp, at only 1.0 bar. (I have yet to figure that one out, because it was making considerably more at the 1.3/1.4 bar I got on the street.) Anyway... on 104, on the street, it would stick in 1st and 2nd until I either tipped it up, or the TCU called over-rev and limped at about 7200-7400 RPM.
Myself and BLK01S4 both experienced this, and we consulted with Level10. The answer was stiffer valvebody actuators, which BLK01S4 actually had installed. Problem solved... but only sort of. His transmission shifts consistantly under power now, but coming down out of 4th is like hitting a curb. It's VERY brisk, and it doesn't sound particularly streetable. (He actually drops into neutral briefly to avoid the bump.) But... there is better news. Keep reading.
Okay... Part Deux: As you will recall, my car was dropping a bit of fluid back on dyno day. Everybody thought it was gear oil from an overfilled diff, so we set that level. No joy. Then the fluid appeared to be dirtier, (motor oil), and we figured out that my cam seals were leaking... so we did those. Still no joy. The drips were clean, but still there. So, we used some trace dye, and determined that it was actually ATF, coming from the top of the bell housing. So... out came the tranmission, off came the torque convertor, and aaaahahhh! One side of the TC seal was collapsed, and fluid was coming forward at the center shaft. (This probably happened when the seal was installed, but was overlooked.) We tore down the gearbox and discovered that I had run nearly three quarts low, and the clutch packs were maleffected. Fortunately, Level10 stands behind their product. They sent a carrier to pick up the transmission, for a complete rebuild, and there it has been since the beginning of April.
Now... the good news: Since my setup was going back to New Jersey anyway, I asked them to investigate the possibility of modifying it so that the stuffer valve body actuators wouldn't cause a crazy hard downshift. They took their time about it, but they came up with a custom front bushing which narrows a couple of flowpaths, so that there will be no such "bump", and I'll shift out of 1st and 2nd just fine.
It's due back here in a few days, and it should be back in the car by the end of the week.
In case you're interested, I know where there's a perfect stock core available locally. It could easily be sent back to Level10 for "the treatment".
The only real issue I had was an ocassional reluctant shift on the 104 program, (which dyno'd about 370 hp, at only 1.0 bar. (I have yet to figure that one out, because it was making considerably more at the 1.3/1.4 bar I got on the street.) Anyway... on 104, on the street, it would stick in 1st and 2nd until I either tipped it up, or the TCU called over-rev and limped at about 7200-7400 RPM.
Myself and BLK01S4 both experienced this, and we consulted with Level10. The answer was stiffer valvebody actuators, which BLK01S4 actually had installed. Problem solved... but only sort of. His transmission shifts consistantly under power now, but coming down out of 4th is like hitting a curb. It's VERY brisk, and it doesn't sound particularly streetable. (He actually drops into neutral briefly to avoid the bump.) But... there is better news. Keep reading.
Okay... Part Deux: As you will recall, my car was dropping a bit of fluid back on dyno day. Everybody thought it was gear oil from an overfilled diff, so we set that level. No joy. Then the fluid appeared to be dirtier, (motor oil), and we figured out that my cam seals were leaking... so we did those. Still no joy. The drips were clean, but still there. So, we used some trace dye, and determined that it was actually ATF, coming from the top of the bell housing. So... out came the tranmission, off came the torque convertor, and aaaahahhh! One side of the TC seal was collapsed, and fluid was coming forward at the center shaft. (This probably happened when the seal was installed, but was overlooked.) We tore down the gearbox and discovered that I had run nearly three quarts low, and the clutch packs were maleffected. Fortunately, Level10 stands behind their product. They sent a carrier to pick up the transmission, for a complete rebuild, and there it has been since the beginning of April.
Now... the good news: Since my setup was going back to New Jersey anyway, I asked them to investigate the possibility of modifying it so that the stuffer valve body actuators wouldn't cause a crazy hard downshift. They took their time about it, but they came up with a custom front bushing which narrows a couple of flowpaths, so that there will be no such "bump", and I'll shift out of 1st and 2nd just fine.
It's due back here in a few days, and it should be back in the car by the end of the week.
In case you're interested, I know where there's a perfect stock core available locally. It could easily be sent back to Level10 for "the treatment".
#3
Re: Here's my experience...
Thanks for the info. Sorry to hear about all the drama!
Do you know of anyone that has one in for an extended time? Before I reccommend one I would like to hear from someone who has had one for a some mileage.
Jeff
Do you know of anyone that has one in for an extended time? Before I reccommend one I would like to hear from someone who has had one for a some mileage.
Jeff
#4
AFAIK, there's only 2 or 3 people that have them and they've all gone in within the last 6-8 months
so finding one with some mileage (in an audi) is going to be difficult.
I've had one in my yukon for 40k miles, no problems other than somewhat harsh shifts which are part of the nature of the beast.
I've had one in my yukon for 40k miles, no problems other than somewhat harsh shifts which are part of the nature of the beast.
#6
Hmmm....
BLK01S4 has had his aboard for about 8 or 9 months, without issue. He was running Stage III Minus with GIAC K03 code until about four months ago, and has had custom tuned Revo code since then. He THRASHES that transmission, and has had no issues, except for the shift hesitation, resolved with stiffer valve body springs, which I have already discussed.
There's one other guy who has been running Level10 for a couple of years, but is basically Stage I, so I don't know how that will help your research.
There's one other guy who has been running Level10 for a couple of years, but is basically Stage I, so I don't know how that will help your research.
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#8
I can say that I have put the tranny through the ringer.
I am running upwards of 1.6 bar of boost and have had the tranny go into limp modes a few times because of rev limiters issues, and let me tell you its not a graceful event its like hitting a wall. On top of that it has go through WOT runs all day long in the Florida heat!! Power braking, 140MPH runs on the highway. Its a tough transmission and doesn't miss a beat no slipping at all. I just hope to get this bump thing fixed when I come out of 4th gear. putting the car in Neutral is getting annoying. I am also switching back to stock stall speeds (2000RPM) after tons of research and getting on the phone with a pro that has a compute to figure this crap out. I am also hoping for slighly cooler trans temps with a lower stall speed, currently I am running at about 180-200 degrees F at 200 F the trans starts to feel a bit slugish and I bet its heat related. Its been a long year with this car and hopefully will be done soon. I am making this car stage III the correct way I am using the RS4 Y-pipe, MAF, Air-box etc.. So that way if someone else wants the code it will all work together.
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