Mandingo®

and fwiw, when i do alignment, i always kept 1/2 a tank of gas and with me in the car, and computer on passenger seat

S40RCE:Smurf

Ronal makes wheels for Audi?!, BTW You got mail =)

bingS4

great for turns, but you sacrifice straight line stability."

I'll be lowering my car (not too much) soon and getting an alignment afterwards of course. I'm just trying to figure out if I should aim for zero toe for better turning and better tire wear, or if I should go more conservative. I plan on tracking it a couple times a year, enjoy spirited driving on back roads, and don't spend too much time on bigger highways.

Mandingo®

left wheel is fighting traction with right wheel and in a straight line tends to stay straight, but i have no issues with zero toe, straight line stability it depends alot on tires/road/susp

bingS4

experiences - I think I'll shoot for zero toe and see how it goes.

JoeS4

the import scene, but I thought only for Honda/Acura? I'm 99.9% sure they do NOT make ANYTHING for an Audi.

jason:addict

We have a Hunter laser alignment machine and corner-weight and align these cars often. Obviously the main problem is that you can't adjust the front camber without adjustable upper arms or installing a camber kit like the KMAC.

These are our performance STREET settings:

We have played with many front toe settings and have arrived at .05-.06 of TOTAL toe IN for the front. This seams to yield a far more responsive turn-in then stock settings (of an extreme amount of toe in) while still maintaining high speed and MOST importantly heavy braking stability. It may not seam like .05 total is that different than straight 0 toe, but it is very noticeable.

For the rear run less then 1.5degs of camber and more then 1.2degs with the range to suit tire wear. Rear toe settings we generally run at .2-.25 degs of TOTAL toe IN.

The most important things with an alignment is that you get what you want exactly (as opposed to just 'making the red number green'), the set-up is the same corner to corner, and DRIVER BALLAST IS PUT IN THE CAR.

If you have coilovers and can't corner-weight just assure that the lower spring perch heights are identical from side to side, so measure or count threads. Do not attempt to set perch height based off of fender gap or ride height or you can assure poor corner balance.

bingS4

Great info. Thanks!

Salscal

uneven ride height? I set my new Vogt GT's at the exact height and the car was not measuring even, so I just went off distance from fender to ground.

jason:addict

And when you have soft or progressive rate springs the ride height can get really uneven in an attempt to achieve 50/50 corner-balance. Sometimes springs are so soft it's unrealistic to try and achieve a real set-up.

This is why you get on the scales and start moving things around the car to balance the weight itself, instead of using the perch height to do it.