Rufrob

Hello all.
My name is Rob and I’m an addict.
I cant count the cars I have owned. Now I have 1981-930, 86-951, 1999 E55T, 2000-E430T 4matic, and 02-996tt. I’ve always wanted an Audi and
came close a few times.
I have been presented with an opportunity to buy a 2001 RS4. 107,000km black. No clutch pedal pressure.
I am pretty handy having done everything on Benz’s and Porsche’s except for transmissions.
I’ve done some research but have some questions.
1. Can I do the clutch or engine pull with only floor jack and jack stands?
2. Are there some parts recommended or are to be avoided? OEM Sachs, LUK etc










3. Since the car has no history. should/can I pull the engine and transmission together and do the T-belt and water pump?
4. I read how to do the tbelt. When the cam
locking tool is removed to remove the cams
sprockets why don’t the cams spin shut?
5. Can the tbelt be done without the cam
tool? I doubt any dealer here will lend it to me.
6. Should I change the cam and crank seals even if they aren’t leaking?

johnkk

You can replace the clutch without pulling the engine. PITA on your back, but many have done it. I would first check for clutch fluid leakage at the slave cylinder. If none, might be the master cylinder. Maybe unscrew the fluid line and block the master output with a plug and see if the master has any pressure.

To pull both at once, you will need a cherry picker. I would check out Justin Ballou on youtube. His S4 videos are excellent.

Re timing belt, you can do in service position, where you pull the bumper cover and slide the front out. First time will take you 1.5 hours. The cams shouldn't spin if you're at TDC. Blauparts will loan you a cam lock bar, if you buy the parts from them. I would go with OEM parts. I believe that you can use a 2.8 water pump that has metal pump blades, but only a few reports of plastic blades failing. The worst task is getting the crank lock pin in, so most techs don't bother and just use the crank pulley marks to set TDC. I would replace all cam seals and the cam tensioner seals while you're there since the car is so old.

A main reason to pull the engine is to get at the turbos and to make changing engine mounts easier. Check for leakage at the engine mounts. If you see leakage, I might pull the whole works. You can do the mounts with the engine in with a bent wrench. Again Justin Ballou for diy.

Rufrob

Thanks for your reply. The engine sounds strong so I'll focus on the clutch first. I should have the car by this weekend, I hope. I'll go through the car and see what else it might need.

Rufrob

Well she finally arrived last night.
I already bought the clutch master and slave.
I'll get into it this weekend a see what I bought.
It runs well and smells fantastic since the PO was a non-smoker.

Rufrob

I did the clutch master this morning. I can't even see the slave. I have full service records up to 2 years ago and 90,000km. Everything was done except for the timingbelt and clutch assembly, just as I expected.

Rufrob

Now I managed to get clutch pressure. I bled the clutch I think. Occasionally the clutch disengages and allows me to put it in gear. When in gear the clutch engages about mid-pedal and stalls when brakes are applied.
Especially reverse is very hard to engage all the time. It feels like the shifter isn't aligned or loose.
I'll bleed it again some more

Rufrob

Well I went through 1 liter of brake fluid and nothing has changed. So it's clutch time. I got a parts quote from Audi stealership for $2000 in parts alone.
I should come in at $400 all in.

Rufrob

I got into it yesterday. The instructions say complete exhaust and some remove the subframe. Yesterday I removed the 3 drive axles and heat shields. Looks like a straight shot to all tranny bolts. Got 8 out but there are 3 lower ones that do require lifting the engine to clear the subframe. Of course the flywheel bolts are backordered to Germany so I'll have to order those from the US. What am I missing?

Rufrob

I lowered the subframe and exhaust pipes and it came out with some persuasion.
Yes some pressure plate finger are bent or broken.
Next rear main seal. Think I'll need to lower the engine to reinstall the tranny.

Rufrob

Of course the rear main seal is the same but flanges were different. A big roll of tape was the perfect size to knock out the seal from the flange. I hope it doesn't leak.
It took 4 hours to put the tranny back in include a second removal because I forgot the spacer ring.
I have 4 small 13mm bolts remaining and 4 10mm holes for the transmission mount to the subframe. How did that happen?
Now it goes into all gears fine. I did break a vacuum hose just under the Y pipe. But it starts and runs smoothly. Next timing belt and water pump.