PSA: Setting toe by counting turns on a tie rod end swap is not sufficient...
02-28-2005, 08:07 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
PSA: Setting toe by counting turns on a tie rod end swap is not sufficient...
...I guess it doesn't help that the replacement rods were the heavy duty ones, which differ in thread to centerline of "stick" that goes into the upright. Maybe OEM to OEM would be good.
Also, decent amount of corrosion on the threads as well.
Anyways, after setting the car down, it was clear the left front was majorly toe'd in, right front looked ok.
I pulled the left front in 2 turns, then re checked and took it for a spin. It was close, but still off. One more turn on the left put the problem on teh right, so then 1 turn on the right made it all good. I'm *guessing* by looking at the wheels that I"m around 0 to 1/16 in. I'll find out once the toe plates I ordered come in and I can get a real measurement.
So see, you don't need a Hunter 3D alignment rack to set Toe right, you can get it close with just eyeballing it. FYI, on first pass my wheel was turned almost 1/4 turn to drive straight. Another key indicator was the amount of tire "squeel" from teh scrubbing of the major Toe In on painted concrete (my garage). So right there I knew it was jacked. The wheel is dead straight now.
So in counting turns on the OE rod ends vs. the final settings on the heavy duty rod ends, the Left Front was off 3 turns and the right front was off 1 turn. Counting turns definitely gets you close, but not close enough for toe. Both rod ends were off "out", so they needed to be threaded IN (thus toeing the wheel OUT more).
I give the job an hour for swapping the ends, and another hour to set Toe if you have plates, or maybe longer if you do the trial and error method (took me 3 up and down and test drives to get it right).
Bloody knuckle warning when loosening the jam nut on the rod end.
Also, decent amount of corrosion on the threads as well.
Anyways, after setting the car down, it was clear the left front was majorly toe'd in, right front looked ok.
I pulled the left front in 2 turns, then re checked and took it for a spin. It was close, but still off. One more turn on the left put the problem on teh right, so then 1 turn on the right made it all good. I'm *guessing* by looking at the wheels that I"m around 0 to 1/16 in. I'll find out once the toe plates I ordered come in and I can get a real measurement.
So see, you don't need a Hunter 3D alignment rack to set Toe right, you can get it close with just eyeballing it. FYI, on first pass my wheel was turned almost 1/4 turn to drive straight. Another key indicator was the amount of tire "squeel" from teh scrubbing of the major Toe In on painted concrete (my garage). So right there I knew it was jacked. The wheel is dead straight now.
So in counting turns on the OE rod ends vs. the final settings on the heavy duty rod ends, the Left Front was off 3 turns and the right front was off 1 turn. Counting turns definitely gets you close, but not close enough for toe. Both rod ends were off "out", so they needed to be threaded IN (thus toeing the wheel OUT more).
I give the job an hour for swapping the ends, and another hour to set Toe if you have plates, or maybe longer if you do the trial and error method (took me 3 up and down and test drives to get it right).
Bloody knuckle warning when loosening the jam nut on the rod end.
02-28-2005, 08:34 AM
#2
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It's good enough to get you to the alignment shop!
Even with eyeballing, I wouldn't drive other than around the block and to the alignment shop on something like that...
It doesn't take long to screw up a set of tires due to bad alignment.
It doesn't take long to screw up a set of tires due to bad alignment.
02-28-2005, 08:42 AM
#3
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yes, good point. I'm waiting for new tires to set f/r alignment...
...but I completely agree with you. You can quickly destroy tires with a bad alignment.
But we'll see how calibrated my eyeballs are once the toe plates come. Given that camber is not adjustable up front, and I already have the rear set where I want (camber wise), I really don't see the need to spend the money for an alignment shop to set Toe when I can do it at home with a set of Toe plates.
But we'll see how calibrated my eyeballs are once the toe plates come. Given that camber is not adjustable up front, and I already have the rear set where I want (camber wise), I really don't see the need to spend the money for an alignment shop to set Toe when I can do it at home with a set of Toe plates.
02-28-2005, 09:01 AM
#5
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i ordered some toe plates from longacre...
...i had a vision of cutting two piece of wood about 2 feet long (i have some wood, 4x6 about 1/4" thick), and cut slots, but I said screw it, these tires are trashed anyways, so I'll just wait till the plates come.
But yeah, the front left about 1/4" IN and the front right about zero drives like crap (FYI).
But yeah, the front left about 1/4" IN and the front right about zero drives like crap (FYI).
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02-28-2005, 12:00 PM
#10
AudiWorld Super User
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i ordered some longacre toe plates, they'll be sufficient for my needs....
...and since I run factory control arms, I really don't care much for checking camber. I set my rear against my front and a specific ride height, so now I just raise/lower the car to adjust camber.
All I really need to set anymore is toe.
All I really need to set anymore is toe.