so i was in a jam for oil tonight during a change, put in royal purple 10w 40
#1
so i was in a jam for oil tonight during a change, put in royal purple 10w 40
it was the only synthetic available to me. i have never used royal purple but will be intersting to see how it feels and sounds. i can tell the difference between GC 0w30, M1 0w 40 and m1 truck and suv... so this should be interesting.
anyone using it currently? i decided with the heat that the heavier weight shouldnt be a big deal.
anyone using it currently? i decided with the heat that the heavier weight shouldnt be a big deal.
#2
my experiances with oil....
M1 0W-40
GC
Royal Purple
Motul
I have used all four of these oils. While going from M1 to GC seems like it is smoother, then going from GC to Motul seems smoother, then back to M1 it seems smoother. I think changing the type of oil has a placebo effect along with the clean oil actually making the motor run smoother, causing us to think it "feels or revs" smoother and faster. Just my .02
GC
Royal Purple
Motul
I have used all four of these oils. While going from M1 to GC seems like it is smoother, then going from GC to Motul seems smoother, then back to M1 it seems smoother. I think changing the type of oil has a placebo effect along with the clean oil actually making the motor run smoother, causing us to think it "feels or revs" smoother and faster. Just my .02
#3
I'd agree with that. I just replaced M1 with some conventional Shell oil and thought,
car seems to be runnng smoother. I really doubt that's the case though. More than likely just imagining it.
#6
Fresh oil is always going to "feel" better than old oil.
The reason why you should run GC is because of it's Group V & IV chemistry, minimal shear loss and unique anti-wear package.
If you want to stick with heavily VII'd shear happy Group IV M1, go ahead ;-)
Dave
If you want to stick with heavily VII'd shear happy Group IV M1, go ahead ;-)
Dave
#7
I wouldn't worry about initial perceived effects of switching oils...
but pay attention to the behavior of the oil
with respects to how it reacts to driving style.
How fast does the oil temp increase with several
WOT runs? How fast does it take to get back to
normal operating temp after WOT?
How long does the oil temp take to cool down to
say "150F" after shutting down on a hot summer day?
During normal driving, what is the oil temp?
Compared to the other oils you have used?
Send the oil for testing during every oil change and
then dyno the car afterwards for good measure=).
Then you'll get a better picture.
imho,
E
with respects to how it reacts to driving style.
How fast does the oil temp increase with several
WOT runs? How fast does it take to get back to
normal operating temp after WOT?
How long does the oil temp take to cool down to
say "150F" after shutting down on a hot summer day?
During normal driving, what is the oil temp?
Compared to the other oils you have used?
Send the oil for testing during every oil change and
then dyno the car afterwards for good measure=).
Then you'll get a better picture.
imho,
E
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#8
I had 1500 miles on the M1 when I replaced it. I also doubt I actually
felt any difference, I think it's just one of those things that you want to believe happens, so in your mind it makes a difference.
I think when it comes to comparing the german castrol and mobil one people are making a mountain out of a mole hill. There may be a slight benefit to using the GC over M1 in some situations, whether or not any of our engines experience those situations that would result in the difference having an affect is questionable.
The subject is presented with statments that try to cause concern, "If you want to stick with heavily VII'd shear happy Group IV M1, go ahead". "Shear happy", come on, that statement makes it sound like if you put M1 in your car it's going to disintegrate. The whole statement comes across as a warning that if you use M1 you do so at risk to your engine. I think that's irresponsible to make such a comment.
I think if M1 really were as poor a quality motor oil as some people hint at with their veiled warnings, we'd be hearing about it from other sources than some unknown person with unknown credentials on a chat forum.
I think when it comes to comparing the german castrol and mobil one people are making a mountain out of a mole hill. There may be a slight benefit to using the GC over M1 in some situations, whether or not any of our engines experience those situations that would result in the difference having an affect is questionable.
The subject is presented with statments that try to cause concern, "If you want to stick with heavily VII'd shear happy Group IV M1, go ahead". "Shear happy", come on, that statement makes it sound like if you put M1 in your car it's going to disintegrate. The whole statement comes across as a warning that if you use M1 you do so at risk to your engine. I think that's irresponsible to make such a comment.
I think if M1 really were as poor a quality motor oil as some people hint at with their veiled warnings, we'd be hearing about it from other sources than some unknown person with unknown credentials on a chat forum.
#9
*sigh* do you even read BITOG?
Plenty of 3-5k OCIs show M1 0w40 shearing to a 30 weight oil. It is not an unknown fact that 0w40 oils contain high levels of VIIs. There are also high iron #s in UOA's of M1.
You also don't seem to realize the benefit of Group V esters and why they're used in practically every racing oil available (Redline, Motul 300V series, ELF).
Obviously this doesn't mean much for the normal daily driver, but when you're increasing the power and torque output of an engine significantly, oil is subject to much greater oxidative and shear stresses and I would think that one would prefer to use an oil that is capable of meeting those requirements.
Dave
You also don't seem to realize the benefit of Group V esters and why they're used in practically every racing oil available (Redline, Motul 300V series, ELF).
Obviously this doesn't mean much for the normal daily driver, but when you're increasing the power and torque output of an engine significantly, oil is subject to much greater oxidative and shear stresses and I would think that one would prefer to use an oil that is capable of meeting those requirements.
Dave
#10
i agree with. I change my oil every 2500 miles. Why? just because i can and how hard i run my car.
This morning on a spirited drive through some back country type roads i did notice it ran cooler than i had seen the last few days in this giving area and elevation than the GC 0w30. it held steady at just over 200, where the GC was frequently above 225 and it didnt like to drop back down with any sort of urgency. What i will like to see today is some prolonged freeway driving with like you mention, back to back WOT 3rd gear runs, like 10 maybe and then see how long it stays up. this would be similar to a logging session and i am familiar with how the other oils behaved with that.
I have never bothered with a blackstone analysis because i figure my oil is always still to new.
I have never bothered with a blackstone analysis because i figure my oil is always still to new.