tmaslar

I am replacing the rear main seal on my car while I am installing a new clutch.

I have just been told that there is a special Audi tool that is needed when installing the rear main seal. The flange is supposedly somtimes shipped with the tool and sometimes not. Mine was not shipped with one in the package.

I was told that without using the tool that the seal will leak after installation!

It is supposed to be an inexpensive plastic tool that only costs $4.00 from Audi.

Does anyone know about this? Does anyone have a part number for this tool? I know the dealer parts people will not easily help me without a part number.

The car is on the lift with the tranny clutch exhaust and rear main seal removed. I am waiting to install the rear main until I can confirm wheather I need to use this tool before I
procede any further.

I am not willing to go any further until I can confirm this and obtain the tool.

A leaking rear main is not something I want to experience after spending a day and a half removing the tranny and spending the $$$ for a new clutch!

Texas Twin T

My next step is to remove the bolts (by lowering the back part of the sub frame) and lower the trans to remove the shift rods and sensors. Then out she comes. Could you tell if it was the RMS that was leaking or the RTV between the upper pan and the flange? One more question, are you using Audi RTV on the gasket behind the flange?

tmaslar

The rear main seal was not leking. It had 130K on it so I figured it was time to replace it while I am in there.

The pressure plate was toast one broken finger two bent. The throw out bearing had also come apart.

There was a small amount of seepage along the upper oil pan to RMS flange. Nothing substantial.

I had planned on using Permatex blue RTV on the upper pan. Is that a problem?

I am now also wondering if I need to remove the coolant line along the top of the flange. It would enable me to push the seal and flange on straight. With the coolant line still there I will have to slip the upper edge of the flange under it then push the lower part of the flange on. Could this possibly stress the seal and cause it to leak prematurely? It looks like it may be a real PIA to get out of the way. But of course nothing about this job was quick and easy.

Still wondering if there is a special Audi seal installation tool needed and if it has a part number? Nothing about this is mentioned in the Bentley Manual.

I REALLY DON'T WANT TO SCREW THIS UP!

tmaslar

The two lower bolts needed to be removed using a large Vise Grip. We saw no way to loosten them with a an allen head. No way to get it in there. They broke free fairly easy with the Vise Grip. One of them could not be removed. We are planning on cutting it off with a cutoff wheel now that the tranny is out. They need to be replaced with 55mm(5mm shorter) hex head bolts according to Bentley anyway. You would never get an allen hex head tool in ther to torque them. Even with hex heads it doesn't look like it will be easy.

Texas Twin T

people have been complaining about oil in their coolant so, I was just checking on what you were using. Thanks for the tip.

tmaslar

Also we did jack up the rear of the engine a bit more with a 4X4 and a floor jack to get a little more access between the subframe and the two lower bolts heads with the vise grip.

tmaslar

I am not worried about $$$ for the RTV from the dealer I just want this to work out. I am wondering if this any different than using Permatex gasket stuff?

goohead

about the special tool for the Rear main seal, im about to replace mine