For those of you with water injection. What setup are you using? Discuss..........
#1
For those of you with water injection. What setup are you using? Discuss..........
I've had it with 100 degree days and the effects thereof. Has anyone seen positive results using methanol/water as opposed to straight water or water/alcohol with the S4?
#2
I've got the Aquamist 2D system. I use a pair of 0.7mm nozzles and
accumulator. I don't notice a difference with it on or off. I can measure a slight drop in IAT at upper rpm's. I've also seen what looks like a lower injector duty cycle and knock voltage with W/I running. I haven't done enough logging with vs without to say for sure whether those effects are really there.
Unless you're ECU is tuned to take advantage of the W/I I don't think it will do much for you. If it is, you should be able to run more boost, timing, and a leaner AFR, or some combination thereof.
Unless you're ECU is tuned to take advantage of the W/I I don't think it will do much for you. If it is, you should be able to run more boost, timing, and a leaner AFR, or some combination thereof.
#3
Have you ever though about a 50% water, 47% methanol, 3% nitromethane mix?
Would you please share with us what you expected it to do and what results you have observed.
I'm in the middle of my own 2d install. Everything is wired up, I'm just too lazy to take the bipipe off and tap it.
From what I've read, you can get 2 different effects depending on installation of the nozzle.
1)If you give it enough room to evaporate downstream of the IAT sensor it will act like an intercooler and lower IATS. With lowered IATs you will always get a more aggressive timing map. If you have high CFs for some reason, this type of setup won't do much to lower them.
2)If you tap on top of the bipipe just before the throttle body, the water will have less time to evaporate before it gets to the IAT sensor giving you a more conservative timing map and thus lowering CFs. Also tapping near the throttle body increases the likelihood of actual liquid water droplets entering the combustion chamber and slowing the combustion process.
I'm looking for effect #2 since I have high Correction Factors with my setup.
I'm in the middle of my own 2d install. Everything is wired up, I'm just too lazy to take the bipipe off and tap it.
From what I've read, you can get 2 different effects depending on installation of the nozzle.
1)If you give it enough room to evaporate downstream of the IAT sensor it will act like an intercooler and lower IATS. With lowered IATs you will always get a more aggressive timing map. If you have high CFs for some reason, this type of setup won't do much to lower them.
2)If you tap on top of the bipipe just before the throttle body, the water will have less time to evaporate before it gets to the IAT sensor giving you a more conservative timing map and thus lowering CFs. Also tapping near the throttle body increases the likelihood of actual liquid water droplets entering the combustion chamber and slowing the combustion process.
I'm looking for effect #2 since I have high Correction Factors with my setup.
#5
The concentration varies, but I use washer fluid containing methanol and water.
Right now I'm aiming for a 50/50 washer fluid to water ratio. Without tuning I don't think it matters much. I have the system set to trip on at 10 psi so it generally only comes on when I'm going WOT. I'm only able to stay WOT for a few seconds. I collected water from the nozzles once during two shorts sprints and had about 3-4 TBS. At that rate you get an idea of how long the washer reservoir tank would last. I've got the W/I, IC misters, and windshield sprayers all drawing from the reservoir and I've never had the low fluid light come on. I'd say at a minimum I can go a month without refilling the reservoir tank.
#7
I'm kind of up in the air about what I want it to do....
It really depends on what is most necessary that I can't tune out with lemmi. Right now I'm getting some pinging on ams for some reason. I haven't been able to take any logs but I'm going to get around to it this week. Terminally I suppose I would like to use it as an aid to the intercoolers as opposed to going with a bigger air to air set up. Liquid to air seems like it's going to be restrictive on price as well and there will be more plumbing. I'm shooting for the $500-600 range for a water injection setup. It really depends on if I need to lower my cf's after tuning or not. I might possibly go both ways and see which is more beneficial.
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#8
Where did you get your 2d system and how much??..........
In the future, once I get things sorted out, I plan to tune for water injection during the summer. I'm not sure how beneficial it will be in the winter as an intercooler aid since it will be 40 degrees out. If I use it then I would only expect cleaner combustion chambers and maybe a little better mileage. Right now though with it being in the low 100's it should be great as an intercooler aid or at least that's what I'm hoping for.
#9
I bought mine through Broadway Auto, but I think they go through
K.C. Saab. If you go to the Aquamist site you can get a listing of prices for the various parts. I depends a lot on what system you go with and what extra parts you get.<ul><li><a href="http://www.broadwayautoclinic.com/">Broadway Auto</a></li></ul>
#10
I briefly tried pulling primary fueling with Lemmiwinks. The LTFT values (m)
went up initially, around 8 on part throttle, but after driving a bit it came back down around 5. I also tried a FATS run like that and it was a fair bit slower. So I stoped pursuing that path and am focusing my efforts elsewhere for the time being.
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