Russjameson

I have a 2013 S6

I installed the Eurocode sway bars about 4 months ago and set it up to the stiffest setting, I recently noticed that on why rear I broke both of the bolts that connect it to the lower control arms. Snapped them off flush so now I have the drill and hopefully easyout the threaded part of the bolt and get some stronger bolts to replace them.

By the way the car handles like **** with no rear sway. I upgraded the endlinks too. I did not how ever use new bolts. I reused the factory ones. And now they are gonners.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Russjameson

So I'm an idiot. Make sure you buy the install kit if you are lowered.
They sell 2 longer string bolts and a metal spacer so you can put it in full stiffness.

Lesson learned. Now hopefully I can get the broken bolt parts out of the lower control arm.

goliath1

Russjameson

I caught plenty of threads.

I just found out what happened. There is an install kit for the rear if your car is lowered. I didnt see it.
its basically a metal spacer and longer bolts.

My mess up.

So if anyone gets this kit and has lpwred your S6 the max with Vagcom, you need the spacers and longer bolts of you'll snap the OEM ones off.

m444

My S6 is lowered only 10mm and the Eurocode sway bars are on the soft setting, no issues with the standard bolts.

Ape Factory

You really should replace the bolts regardless as they're one use only, torque to yield.

19hole

Sorry but you can't "torque to yield". That would lead to a failed bolt every time. If the actual act of tightening the bolt didn't break it, then the first time any addition stress was applied to the bolt it would break.

Ape Factory

No. The bolt type is called torque to yield or a "stretch bolt". Meaning as you torque it to spec (and I believe it's what, 29ft/lbs or something like that, the bolt actually stretches a bit. It's good once. Reuse the same bolt and it won't torque to spec correctly. Of course you're not going to torque it til it snaps. Who would do that, LOL.

Pretty much every bolt in the suspension is a stretch bolt. One tine use.

gk1

Yes, both bolts to the rear link are TTY and need to be tightened with the wheels on the ground to keep the rubber bushing from twisting, but that is not relevant to this particular thread.
Even the nut on the bolt to the sway bar should be replaced since I do not think it is a nylon insert lock-nut but a deform-able locking nut instead.

1 - Bolt
❑ 40 Nm +90° turn
❑ Always replace if removed
❑ Must be tightened in the
curb weight position.

3 - Bolt
❑ 40 Nm +90° turn
❑ Always replace if removed
❑ Must be tightened in the
curb weight position.

4 - Nut
❑ Always replace if removed