it is ridiculously hard to get off the clamp on the wastegate side of this hose!!

aside from that the removal/install wasn't too bad, but i might have to do part of it over again b/c the clamps i bought/used absolutely suck. if anyone's doing this repair, definitely get good, quality clamps from McMaster-Carr or elsewhere, as the ones available at local parts stores are junk.

Now for the actual writeup:
Tools needed:
4mm silicone tubing*
6mm silicone tubing*
4mm->6mm barb fitting*
4 small hose clamps
13mm deep socket
socket extension
metal punch (or other tool for spreading the oem crimp clamps)
basic screwdrivers, etc..
FLASHLIGHT <---this is VERY IMPORTANT

*parts needed only if you're making your own hose instead of using the OEM part


Basically you want to start by removing the strut tower bar.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/18960/engine_bay.jpg">
^^^i have no idea why this picture won't display properly....
Remove the three nuts on each side and the two nuts that hold the bar to the center mounts (all shown with the arrows). You will probably need to use the extension to get at the center two mounting points.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/18960/strut_bar_removed.jpg">
Next, remove the bracket on the passenger side of the car (13mm nut as well). You can leave the driver's side mount, as it doesn't really get in the way at all.

The next step is to just un-snap the heat shielding material that covers the pipe coming from the "hot side" of the turbo. Once you've un-snapped the two pieces, just push them under the hose and out of the way. If you look behind the motor now, you should be able to see the top of the wastegate actuator (as seen here from the intake side of the engine bay).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/18960/wastegate.jpg">


Finally, remove the DV and your intake. This step is pretty straightforward, so I'm not really going to explain it. The DV/Airbox don't really have to come out, but removing these pieces opens up more space around the motor, and you really need all the space you can get...

Now for the fun part...you basically need to lie down on top of the motor. You want to put your left arm in the space behind the charge pipe, which is why that strut tower bar bracket had to come out. If you have thin arms, this part shouldn't be too much of a problem. With your left arm, you want to reach around the back of the motor to get to the wastegate side of the hose. You can rest your head on the weather stripping that runs along the back of the engine compartment, and use your right arm to shine the flashlight down towards the turbo.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/18960/position.jpg">

Once you've figured out how to reach the hose, you need to loosen the crimp clamp that holds the hose on. I used a metal punch because it had a small tip that fit nicely. There really isn't much space back there, so choose your weapon wisely ;-) You can try to access this clamp from the intake/driver's side of the engine compartment, but there's even less room, so I think the passenger side approach makes more sense.

Once you have that clamp off, the hardest part of this job is done. Remove the hose from both the N75 and the wastegate and remove it from the engine bay.

Now for the installation of the new hose. Fit a clamp over one end of the 4mm tubing so that the screw/head is on the right side of the tube. This is important because it will make tightening the clamp MUCH easier. Get the hose to near the wastegate by feeding it down along the intake pipe, then you'll need to reach around the motor again from the passenger side to actually attach it to the wastegate actuator. Make sure you position the clamp so that the screw/head is facing out towards the intake. There's enough room between the intake pipe and the brake fluid reservoir for a stubby screwdriver/socket driver(?), so by orienting the clamp in this way, you can tighten it pretty easily.

With that out of the way, the rest of the install is pretty easy! Attach/clamp the 4mm tubing to the barb fitting, then do the same for a short piece of 6mm tubing. Attach the other end of the 6mm tubing to the side of the N75 and tighten up the clamp there.

Reattach all the heat shielding stuff on the top/back of the motor, reinstall the strut tower bar, and you're done!

Sorry for the crappy arrows...my MS Paint skills need some work! If I missed something or if something is unclear, please ask! I hope this writeup is helpful.

 

Doesn't sound easy.....probably goes over like a turd in a punch bowl.

 

or timing belt job, but accessing that hose is just a big PITA! i hope my pictures (once i upload/post them) will make it easier for anyone else who has to do this repair...

 

That would be great....the more write ups around here the better.

 

problem or are you still having boost issues?

 

it seems to have helped with the power delivery, so i'm hoping that hose was the problem *fingers crossed*