Febi control arm creak when warm
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Febi control arm creak when warm
Last fall, I needed a new front shock, so I did the front shocks and control arms, etc at the same time. I received a free set of febi bilstein control arms(unused but probably over 5yrs old), minus front left upper rear and front right upper forward arms, which I bought TRW for.
So now that weather has warmed up, I'm getting the classic febi creak/groan when turning at slow speed. I sprayed all joints and bushings one at a time with soapy water, then WD, and then PBlaster and couldn't locate gremlin(s). Next, I injected grease into all ball joint boots, and I'm still getting the groan after a couple of days to let the grease work in. I'm thinking that perhaps the grease boot injection is not sufficient, and I need to install Zerk fittings to force the grease into the joint. Looks like I can add fittings to all joints except the lower arm with the solid aluminum ball joint end. Or is this a waste of time and I need to just replace the febi arms?
Anybody around who experienced this problem found the offending joints? Upper vs lower? Bushing vs ball joint? Other diagnosis tricks?
So now that weather has warmed up, I'm getting the classic febi creak/groan when turning at slow speed. I sprayed all joints and bushings one at a time with soapy water, then WD, and then PBlaster and couldn't locate gremlin(s). Next, I injected grease into all ball joint boots, and I'm still getting the groan after a couple of days to let the grease work in. I'm thinking that perhaps the grease boot injection is not sufficient, and I need to install Zerk fittings to force the grease into the joint. Looks like I can add fittings to all joints except the lower arm with the solid aluminum ball joint end. Or is this a waste of time and I need to just replace the febi arms?
Anybody around who experienced this problem found the offending joints? Upper vs lower? Bushing vs ball joint? Other diagnosis tricks?
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From: In the Cloud
If you want to isolate the problem, the trick is to replace one part at a time. When the problem disappears, the part you just replaced is the culprit. This may take extra time, but will probably result in fewer parts replaced overall.
In my experience, zerk fittings are a waste of time. YMMV,
If you want to solve the problem quickly, replace all the parts at the same time. Not the cheap way, but expedient.
In my experience, zerk fittings are a waste of time. YMMV,
If you want to solve the problem quickly, replace all the parts at the same time. Not the cheap way, but expedient.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 911
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Thanks for info on Zerk fittings, one less thing to worry about.
After researching this control arm noise issue further, it seems like most febi creaking noise issues with new arms are with bushings, unfortunately sometimes upper and sometimes lower.
During installation, I did torque the mounting bolts with a jack under the spindles to avoid stressing the bushings.
When the noise is present after driving for awhile, the noise and vibration seem to be coming from both sides. I though it might just be transmitted across the steering rack or body/subframe.
I'm going to try heating the inner bushing mounts up a bit with a heat gun one at a time to see if it's localized. I think I will try the lowers first. If nothing there, I will remove pinch bolt and pop balljoints to get easier movement of the upper arms, heat them up, and see if I can find the culprit. If more than one, I think I will replace all 6 non-febi arms with trw or lemforder. I have a hunch that more than one is creaking and probably the lowers.
I really don't want to replace arms one at a time with all the repetition involved, just looking for diagnostic approaches to avoid it.
After researching this control arm noise issue further, it seems like most febi creaking noise issues with new arms are with bushings, unfortunately sometimes upper and sometimes lower.
During installation, I did torque the mounting bolts with a jack under the spindles to avoid stressing the bushings.
When the noise is present after driving for awhile, the noise and vibration seem to be coming from both sides. I though it might just be transmitted across the steering rack or body/subframe.
I'm going to try heating the inner bushing mounts up a bit with a heat gun one at a time to see if it's localized. I think I will try the lowers first. If nothing there, I will remove pinch bolt and pop balljoints to get easier movement of the upper arms, heat them up, and see if I can find the culprit. If more than one, I think I will replace all 6 non-febi arms with trw or lemforder. I have a hunch that more than one is creaking and probably the lowers.
I really don't want to replace arms one at a time with all the repetition involved, just looking for diagnostic approaches to avoid it.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
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Update. May be wishful thinking, but noise is almost gone. I think the grease I injected into the balljoints may have worked around. Did not try the heat gun on bushing mounts, but will do if noise returns.
AudiWorld Member
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I installed a full set of Febi control arms, new shocks and upper mounts about 35,000 miles ago. I also experience the creaking , groaning when hot. I have tried replacing lower and upper arms as one of the posters suggested. To no avail. Since a minor annoyance I just live with it during the summer months here in Northern New Jersey. Good luck!
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
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I hope the grease I injected into the ball joints continues to stop the creaking. Was OK on one hot day last week, but cool since, so quiet The test will be after a few hot days in a row. Also in NJ, so could be a long wait!
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